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New River Gunks 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: McCarthy, Swoager '85
Page Views: 3,298
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007
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Mike pulling the final crux in the wide crack.

Description 

Climb starts immediatly left of right facing arete and J.Y.D.
Technical and interesting moves and protection denote the route's lower half while the upper half's mini-roof gives this climb its 3rd star and its + rating


Location 

Route lies right of Team Jesus and left of JYD on gigantic flake (50' by 25' by 80')


Protection 

Technical and tricky pro in sections, bring a #5 camalot if you want pro for the last 5 feet.



Photos of New River Gunks Slideshow Add Photo
Patrick leading New River Gunks During the 2010 New River Rendezvous.
Patrick leading New River Gunks During the 2010 Ne...
New River Gunks (5.7+). New River Gorge, WV. Cruising the classic line.
New River Gunks (5.7+). New River Gorge, WV. Cruis...
Mike making the reachy crux move
Mike making the reachy crux move
New River Gunks
BETA PHOTO: New River Gunks
Patrick closing in on the Gunky roof crack above.
Patrick closing in on the Gunky roof crack above.
Comments on New River Gunks Add Comment
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By Matt Caldwell
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Watch out for the wasps!

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
May 6, 2013

Not at all PG13. There are a couple of placements you don't want to miss but it's all there. You also don't need a big cam to protect the offwidth section at the top.

However, the OP's intention of keeping brand-new leaders off this route is probably wise. Despite the grade it would not be a good first lead.