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Junkyard Wall
Routes Sorted
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Ann's Revenge T 
Antropov's Cold T,TR 
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 
Churning in the Huecos T 
Contortionist, The T 
Distortionist, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Enteruptus T 
Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Frigidator TR 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) T 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
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Mr. Ed T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
Nine Lives T 
Rapscallion's Blues T 
Reachers of Habit S 
Reaching New Heights  T 
Realignment T,TR 
Rhododenema T 
Scott's Turf Builder T 
Stuck In Another Dimension T 
Team Jesus T 
V-Slot T 
Who Knows? T 
Yew Nosemite T 
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New River Gunks 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: McCarthy, Swoager '85
Page Views: 4,455
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Mike pulling the final crux in the wide crack.

Description 

Climb starts immediatly left of right facing arete and J.Y.D.
Technical and interesting moves and protection denote the route's lower half while the upper half's mini-roof gives this climb its 3rd star and its + rating

Location 

Route lies right of Team Jesus and left of JYD on gigantic flake (50' by 25' by 80')

Protection 

Tricams, nuts and small cams are useful in the bottom half of the route. A #5 camalot will allow you very comfortably protect the finishing moves if you so desire. Bolted anchor.


Photos of New River Gunks Slideshow Add Photo
Patrick leading New River Gunks During the 2010 Ne...
Patrick leading New River Gunks During the 2010 Ne...
New River Gunks (5.7+). New River Gorge, WV. Cruis...
New River Gunks (5.7+). New River Gorge, WV. Cruis...
Mike making the reachy crux move
Mike making the reachy crux move
New River Gunks
BETA PHOTO: New River Gunks
Patrick closing in on the Gunky roof crack above.
Patrick closing in on the Gunky roof crack above.

Comments on New River Gunks Add Comment
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By jsustrich
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Our friend did it for his first lead, no real problems and he felt confident the entire way despite it being about 11PM and dark as sin out. Lots of fun to climb with only headlamps.
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