Junkyard Wall Rock Climbing
New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite.
This area is home to multiple classic routes at many different ability levels. Most routes are short, from 50 to about 65 feet tall. Plan accordingly, because this area, because of its minimal approach, close proximity to the AAC campground and top access trail, can get crowded very easily. Please share resources here. With only two routes that are bolted, and both of those requiring some gear to avoid a PG rating, this is definitely a place you'll want to bring a rack if you're leading. If you are strictly top roping here, please be polite and share with people that want to lead. There is no such thing as a rope hanging on a route as a reservation. This area is also often guided and often has children present as a result. Act accordingly.
From Highway 19 turn onto Ames Heights Rd. Take a left onto rt 60/96. This is the same road that you'll find the AAC campground. Just after the campground, there is small pull off on the left- between two trees. Further down, there is a turnaround spot at the trailhead with limited parking as well. Don't block anyone in there. Allow enough room for someone to drive in and turn around because after this point, the road is one way. Do not drive down the road any further than this turnaround point. You'll be going the wrong way on a one way road. At the trailhead you have two options. The path to the right has top access, the path to the left is a big set of stairs that takes you to the base of the crag.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
31 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Junkyard Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Junkyard Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Junkyard Wall:
Mr. Ed 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
V-Slot 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Realignment 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Junkyard Wall
Rapscallion's Blues 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Junkyard Wall
A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV