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Sandstonia

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5.5 My Ass 
Assman 
Bobby D's Bunny 
Butterfly Flake 
Celtic Sun 
Crescendo 
Decameron, The 
Geisha Girl 
Hardcore Female Rash 
Kinestetica 
Lieback and Enjoy It 
Mrs. Field's Follies 
Shady Lady 
Weisenheimer Brainstorm 
Zeitgeist 

Sandstonia

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Sep 5, 2006
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Views: 620 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

View of this cliff from the approach trail, easies...


Description 

Sport area to the max. Lots of sacrificial climbs in this area. Almost every climb in this area should be mixed or trad, as there is sweet gear here.

However, There are a great many classic routs here including 5.5 My Ass, Assman, Kinestetica, Geisha Girl, and many more that I haven't yet climbed I'm sure.


Getting There 

The parking area and access route have changed. Park at a small area just past Ames Cemetary on the left of the road. Follow the power line cut and take the marked cut off to the left into the woods after the second hill. Once in the woods, the trail becomes and old double track. Follow this a few hundred feet (passing obvious trails on the left and right) until it turns into a foot path, veer to the right at a Y, and follow this downhill (sometimes steeply downhill) and cross the drainage to the base of the crag (on your left as you face the river far below). There is no downclimbing or ladders on the access.

Note the access may change at any time. This access path was good as of December 2007. Check www.newriverclimbing.net for most recent updates.

Thanks Tim Schafstall for your contribution.



Featured Route For Sandstonia
Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.

Mrs. Field's Follies 5.8  West Virginia : New River Gorge : Sandstonia
This is a really fun route with a crack, some face, and an overhang on really nice rock.Start as for Geisha Girl by climbing the wide crack, then straight up to the intimidating roof (easier than it looks). Surmount the roof to the anchors....[more]


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By Mark Cushman
From: Erie, CO
Apr 9, 2008

Partial topo is available as an addendum to Eric Horst's Bubba City guide :

http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/BubbaCity/pages/topos.htm

This guide has a topo of Sandstonia.