New River Gorge 

Roger's is currently closed. Plan on camping somewhere else.

Thanks to NRAC and the Anchor Replacement Initative

I just got back from NRG. Spent tree days climbing around Junkyard wall and Bridge area. Unfortunately I got back home covered by chiggers!! So if you are planing to climb on those areas don't forget to pack bug spray, preferably one with DEET on it. (the only thing that is fully effective against chiggers).

Ditto on bug spray at the New, especially during the warmer months.

I lived in a tent for three summers down in the New and never had a problem with the biting insects. Maybe you need to gain some perspective, feel free to come up to New Hampshire some spring to experience the black flies and ticks.

Oh, not sure any additional (NH?) perspective is necessary. Most folks are quite capable of recognizing the attacks of parasitic insects, and the New definitely has its share. Personally, I've never dealt with chiggers, but the pesky no-see-ums can be a real annoyance (always seem to show-up when I'm belaying) . I say, bring your bug spray, and have it handy just in case.

Some friends and I were thinking of doing a road trip down there in the middle of March for spring break. Any one got some beta on what the weather might be like at that time of year? temp and precipitation wise. Will the cliffs be in spring seeping conditions, wet from melting snow or anything?

Mid-March weather at the New is anyone's call....cool/damp - warm/dry....so best be prepared and flexible. Moisture may linger in shaded cracks and corners, however, face routes and those in the sun (obviously) dry out rather quickly. Stay in the sun and you'll be comfortable with plenty of routes to choose from.

I also have a weather question:

I'm coming from California in May (Memorial Day weekend) and I'm curious what the weather is typically like. Are we talking hot and humid?

I see all of these routes posted up and no photos and the info is lame. Weak sauce.

Great climbing, but if you can't climb 5.9 or above, think of some place else, there are very few 5.6 to 5.8 routes, had friend with me how could only 5.8, they did not have a lot of climbs to do,

Wolverine Publishing has come out with an incredible new guidebook for the area, and an iPhone app is currently being developed. New River Gorge Rock Climbs Book

Anybody have advice on which crags are dog-friendliest among all the many options at the New?

For starters, I'm looking to avoid places where access to the base of the routes involves mandatory use of ladders. But are there any other issues I need to think about if I plan to bring a 35-pound dog here for the first time? (i.e. nearby houses, busy roads, cops, snakes, etc...)

I was thinking of coming out for the entire month of October and am interested in renting a place for the month with 3 of my friends..........does anyone have any recommendations on where to look that would be affordable?
Thanks!
megarzt@gmail.com

Any recommendations on camping at the New?

If you plan to climb at the Endless Wall the Chestnut Creek Campground is a good option. It is within a mile or two of the Endless Wall parking lots. Clean facilities with showers. Between $7-10 per night per person depending on time of year.

Rogers is right next to Kaymoor. I think he is charging around 7 dollars a night + an extra dollar or two for dogs. This is the place to go if you like more of the Miguel's atmosphere. Lots of climbers to hang out with. Porta potties are really disgusting there.

My personal preference is the free camping at the base of the Summersville Dam. This is the place to stay if you're climbing at the Meadow or Summersville. There are a lot of river people down there right now for Gauley Season so it can be difficult to find a spot on the weekends.

Would Nov. 26-Dec. 7 be a good time to travel to the new or does anyone think it will be a washout?

I 2nd Chestnut Creek. It's 10/person if you pay by card and 9 if you pay in cash. He has heated showers and nice toilets (read: not portopotties). The sites are pretty private, secluded, and has a really nice/quiet atmosphere. It's on the road to the Endless Wall. People complain about Brian's "rules"...which are nothing more than common sense rules such as don't shit in the woods, use the bathroom, and put out your fire at night. If you're not a space cadet it's really easy to post up here.

Does anyone know if summerville is climbable during the first week of march or will the water be up too high? Pirates cove is the crag that im looking at going to.

I left my Miuras around Kaymoor Slabs (packing out in the dark :() and when I went back for them they had been picked up. If anyone could help get them back to me I would really appreciate it. They are expensive and I JUST broke them in. Thanks!

You should consider checking for your lost shoes at waterstone outdoor store if you haven't already done so. Seems to me that would be the obvious place to drop off lost gear.

Heading the NRG in a week or so and wondering if it is a good idea to bring a stick clip? Don't know which walls we are climbing yet but hoping to do some sport and trad.

If Roger's is closed, where should my friends and I camp for a week in mid-april?