The New River Gorge is one of the premier climbing areas on the East Coast. Between the New River Gorge, Summerville Lake, and The Meadows there are more than 1600 established routes on 60+ miles of cliffline. While the moderates at some crags can be extremely crowded on weekends there are other areas that see very little activity and still others where many FAs are still possible.
The rock itself is very solid sandstone. Height ranges from 40 to 150 feet. Overhangs, roofs, splitter cracks, and dihedrals are common, but slabs and otherroutes exist. The cliffs are very long with few breakdowns. Most trails go thru these break downs, but because there are stretches more than four miles long without breakdowns ladders have been established in some areas so that hiking out is possible. However, most climbers will find it easier and more convenient to climb out. Most routes have a <15 min approach, but almost all routes can be reached inside of 45 minutes.
The ratio of traditional to sport climbs varies crag to crag. One should be aware that some of the sport routes are actually "mixed" and that gear might be important, unless you are looking for a spicy adventure. Boulders are frequently found along the bottom of the cliffline, although they are seldom cleaned and climbed because of the classic lines that lie above them.
The New River Gorge offers a great variety of climbs, however, most of the Sport routes in the NRG are from 5.10 to 5.13 and finding a quality 5.9 that is bolted is extremely rare. Most of the Trad climbs (that don't require significant crawling through painful vegetation/ huge spiders) go at somewhere from 5.8+ to 5.11+.
It should be noted that the New River Gorge is not a beginner or a gym rat's climbing mecca. The New is best suited to the 5.11/5.12 climber who is comfortable leading up to 5.11+ on sport and 5.10- on Trad.
Summer can be hot and humid, but there are always routes in the shade and deep water soloing at Summersville Lake.
Getting There
Highway access is from Route 19, between Beckley and Hico, and from I-64, between Mossy and Sandstone.
There are quite a few different living arrangements available in the NRG, especially if you come close to or during rafting season (May-Oct).
These options range from car-camping, to tenting, to cheap motels and hotels.
There is also a new hostel which is located on the north side of the gorge. I haven't had any experience with it, but it is there supposedly.
Places For Food
Cathedral Cafe The best breakfast and lunch place in the NRG. Local, climber and paddler hangout. Reasonable prices($4-$7), public computers, WI-FI and good food make this restaurant my favorite in the NRG.
Pies and Pints Awesome pizza, very interesting different types of pizza than you have ever thought existed. Tuesday nights are a buffet $8 buys you as much as you can eat, it is awesome and worth it!
Sambino's $5 large pizza with one topping, ultimate cheap place to get awesome pizza. This pizza is cheaper and better than Dominos. My favorite quick dinner fix after a day of guiding/climbing. It is in the smae plaza as Krogers, South of Fayetteville on US 19 West side of the road, first big plaza you'll hit.
Krogers Grocery Store just south of the NRG on US19 on West side of the road.
Wal-Mart Everyone loves to not spend lots of money, but get lots of stuff. Wal-mart is the Devil. South of town on US19 East side of road before Krogers.
Classic NRG route with good variety...crack (tips-fingers-hands), thin face/slab (crux), and steep flake (layback). Climb crack to vertical slot mid-route. Protect well, solve slabby crux and move up face to nice horizontal. Then, follow left-leaning crack and flake to top. Crux is brief, but technical, and requires some thought. Pro is good. ...[more]
I just got back from NRG. Spent tree days climbing around Junkyard wall and Bridge area. Unfortunately I got back home covered by chiggers!! So if you are planing to climb on those areas don't forget to pack bug spray, preferably one with DEET on it. (the only thing that is fully effective against chiggers).
Ditto on bug spray at the New, especially during the warmer months.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 2, 2008
I lived in a tent for three summers down in the New and never had a problem with the biting insects. Maybe you need to gain some perspective, feel free to come up to New Hampshire some spring to experience the black flies and ticks.
Oh, not sure any additional (NH?) perspective is necessary. Most folks are quite capable of recognizing the attacks of parasitic insects, and the New definitely has its share. Personally, I've never dealt with chiggers, but the pesky no-see-ums (that always seem to show-up when I'm belaying) can be a real annoyance. I say, bring your bug spray, and have it handy just in case. It does provide a bit of relief.
New River Gorge
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