The cliff band is on private property and has recently changed hands, which created some potential access issues. There are a number of "No Trespassing" signs on the land.
The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."
The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.
With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.
Just a short hike climbers left of Simpson wall are a few cliff line boulder problems, as well as a steep 45 degree boulder.
The real good stuff is a ways further upstream. The Upstream Bouldering area is a nice cluster of good sized boulders. The lines here look difficult, steep, dynamic, and overall more appealing than the right sectors area. A real boulderers paradise.
Getting There
Take the trail into the woods from the far right corner of the campground. Follow the left hand fork up the the main cliff. Most boulder problems can be found by traversing the bluff line to the left. After hitting the cliff proper and continuing left, the order of routes you should see are; the 'chicken of the woods' problems (30 sec), 45 degree boulder (5 min, just past a boulder strewn wash), Upstream Boulders (20 min).
Alternate approach (faster) for the Upstream Boulders is to take the river side trail until you see a tributary merge into the New on the far side of the river. You should see two large boulders just at the edge of the water. Follow the trail marked by cairns that leaves the mail trail at the second (further upstream) boulder. The boulders should be right up the hill from there. Routes are described as left or right in reference to the alligator skin boulder (obvious).
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Left Sector Bouldering:
Start deep in the cave with a great undercling. Pull off the ground into a good huge sidepull, match and then bump out low and left. Continue out and up using dynamic movement. Excellent fun!...[more]Browse More Classics in WV
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
