The cliff band is on private property and has recently changed hands, which created some potential access issues. There are a number of "No Trespassing" signs on the land.
The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."
The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.
With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.
Short little cliff band outside of Bozoo, WV near the Shanklin's Ferry campground. Rarely crowded with a decent variety or routes. Most of the routes are in the shade. The rock type is Nuttall Sandstone. There are a few bolted routes, but most of the climbing is trad, with an easily accessible cliff top for setting up topropes.
Getting There
Take 460 to Rich Creek, VA. Turn at the Burger Boy restaurant. The road will bend to the left. Just before the bridge turn right onto 219. After about 5-10 minutes you'll cross the border into WV and go over a small bridge. A few blocks past the bridge you'll turn left onto 12. After about a mile you'll see a Southern States on the left. Take the first left turn past this (it's not a full turn, you'll veer left about 45 degrees). This is Bozoo Rd but be careful because the street sign gets stolen frequently. After about 5 miles you'll pass a large church and the road will spilt . Veer onto the far left road. This is Shanklin Ferry Rd. At this point the road turns into one paved lane with a half lane of gravel on either side. If you see a car coming the other way make sure you get onto the gravel and spilt the road with them. This road will take you into the woods. Be sure to go straight through the first intersection. The road bends a bit. Eventually this road will turn to gravel. When it does take the far right road. This will lead you to a big field. Take the first right and drive to the far end of the field. Park near the Visitor Parking sign. You may get a ticket if you park in a camping area without paying.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bozoo:
Start deep in the cave with a great undercling. Pull off the ground into a good huge sidepull, match and then bump out low and left. Continue out and up using dynamic movement. Excellent fun!...[more]Browse More Classics in WV
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Aug 4, 2009
I have started adding routes to the area. I am new to the area so if you know any additional info on the routes just let me know and I will update. I also gave names to routes because I couldn't find names to most of the boulder problems here ( I think giving them names is better then calling it Unknown #1 etc). If any of these routes have names, again just let me know and I will change it.
Did you check rockclimbing.com for problem names? I know there is a huge amount of boulders up there and I climbed a roof problem in bozoo that was barely even mentioned online even though the line was really amazing. I don't think it could hurt to put the information out about any problems you find there for other people to read, even if it has been done before. It would really help climbers who are not immediate locals to the area trying to find good boulder lines at Bozoo (like me).
I think this best way to go about finding names/info (prior to posting anything...how would you like your FAs re-named?) is to hook up with the local scene, in my experience. It may take a bit...but this is the south. That being said most are friendly and willing to show folks stuff, just as long as access and history are preserved. Doing otherwise tends to just bruise those inroads before you make them. Just my experience. And I know from having lived in the area, many of the above names/grades are incorrect...please do this site, yourself, and the scene you are a guest of, a favor...ask around for a tour. Thats what I did, and was met with openess.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Sep 7, 2009
Frank, Thanks for the info, I totally get your point, and did not intend to step on local history. I am definitely not claiming FAs or naming rights. I merely put names up as place holders (see previous post) before I forgot about the route. By all means please post the real names and I will quickly and gladly change them. The ratings I posted were about what I thought they were when I climbed these routes over the past month.
I met and climbed with many really awesome locals (the climbers in this area are great!). However no one really seems to know any names, history on the area bouldering yet... You should PM me with the needed changes, and add some of the routes. It would really be appreaciated. Thanks! Travis
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Sep 18, 2009
Thanks to those of you who have contacted me with historical info and names! Any more out there?
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Sep 20, 2009
Found some gear here last weekend (Sept 13th). PM me if you think you lost something here.
this comment is directed toward travis. before i dig into this little thing here, i want to make it absolutely clear that i intend no harm out of what i am about to say. with that out of the way: you need to start speaking to locals before you post fa's, or start "adding routes" to an area that has seen climbing for over 30 years. don't assume that because it isn't on mountain project, no one has been there. my advice to you, travis, is to seek out people who have established routes and problems at bozoo and get confirmation from them. i'm not going to name any names because i don't have their permission, but you can easily contact these guys by going down to the BRMS shop, or asking the names of the route-setters at the local gym. as far as new routes are concerned, there's maybe two or three projects left at bozoo, they're located at the french tits boulder. the newest problems you've posted pics of, what you've been calling D1, etc. are boulders that several climbers (again, i'm not naming names through lack of permission), including myself, have cleaned--and climbed--in the past. why do you think those boulders have a well-manicured trail leading to them? why do you think those boulders have cleaned topouts and landings? why do you think those boulders have chalk all over them? the reason you didn't find a sack of information about bozoo on mountain project is because the climbing is a hair's distance from private property. have you seen the posted signs leading up to the trad wall? those are there because someone owns that land. access to bozoo has always been a very touchy subject, and in the past--last year, for example--climbers haven't legally had permission to go up there. we keep information on local bouldering areas local because we don't want to lose access. please, if you want a tour of the area, there are climbers in blacksburg (who've been climbing at bozoo for at least a decade) that will show you everything that's out there. right now, though, you're stepping on a lot of people's toes. i suggest you remove what you've posted until you're 100% sure the name and grade, and not post anything you may think is "new" until you're sure on that, as well. just a heads up, man. (this is a side note, but that pic of you on the roof problem at what you're calling the "left sector," you see that red stick clip with a brush on it? yeah, that belongs to me. i'm sure you saw that the brush didn't have any bristles left. you know why that is? because it was used to clean all those boulders out there. think before you damage what could be positive relationships with our community)
-joe
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Nov 7, 2009
Joecl, OBVIOUSLY, these lines have been climbed many, many, many times before. (yes I saw all the chalk and your old brush). Please notice that I did NOT at ANY POINT claim FAs. I have been in contact with a few people who claim they established the FAs in the late 90s. They have a hand drawn guide to the boulders. I just need to meet up with them sometime to get a copy of it... The 'names' I gave them are just placeholders until I can get the real deal.
No one I have spoken with so far has mentioned access being an issue. The landowner sounds to be both aware of; and OK with climbers on the property (at least thats the word from all the locals I have talked to). Clearly you must be comfortable enough with his property to be establishing trails and 'manicuring' the trees.
Do you know of any of the history? FAs? Route names? Just email them to me and I will change them quickly.
My side note: Please read the previous posts. I think this stuff has already been addressed, and several people have email me with what they believe are the correct names etc.
Finally: Lets meet up for a bouldering session. Got any afternoons free? There is a ton of stuff I havent done out there yet.
the land the climbing sits on is a nature preserve, but there is a rather sizeable farm just above the cliff line. the trails are located on the nature preserve, but as with most bouldering areas in the southeast, access is always a concern, whether you're climbing at HP40 or a lesser known area, such as this. my mistake to say you were claiming FA's, and i'm glad you've been in touch with other area climbers trying to find information, but you've just got to realize that you might be heading for an uphill battle trying to get all of bozoo's climbing information accurately on mountain project. the guys you've spoken to are going to give you a hand made topo of the area, that should tip you off that this place is low-key. i didn't intend to exude an air of jack-ass-ness, though i know what i said was harsh. don't mistake me for a butt-hurt local trying to keep his crag 'locals only.' i want everyone to be able to climb this area as it has some of the most beautiful sandstone around with an extremely high concentration of quality boulder problems. i just think that before you do any official mountain projecting of bozoo--or any area, for that matter (the you here is referential)--you should have every bit of possible information on said area in order to guarantee an accurate and well-rounded guide.
as i'm only a boulderer, i don't know any of the routes at the walls, but i do know most the boulder problems at the main area, and as previously mentioned, we've been working on up-keep further downriver. i don't have your email, so pm me and i'll explain as much as i can on that.
again, i'm not trying to step on your toes, just as i'm sure you're not trying to step on mine, or anyone else's.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Nov 7, 2009
Fast response...Glad to hear we are on the same page. No worries on the whole butt-hurt thing, you may however want to invest in a thicker crashpad if the condition gets any worse.
I actually PMed you a few minutes ago (unless the email you gave wasnt legit).
The guys with the topo actually seemed pleased when I told them about posting the routes etc. It sounded like they might like the history to be out online (and werent interested in doing it themselves)(probably they are climbing, not nerding online like us). So my thinking was this was the best way to get it out, and to have some sort of guide/reference list out.
To PM just click on my name and it will open an direct message to me.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 8, 2009
Let me know if I can hep out at all from an Administrator point of view.
I believe the issue here is when the basic bond between the intimacy of a remote and untraveled climbing area and the satisfaction of that existence is threatened by exposure. True, this is an age old battle but is easily avoidable if everyone is satisfied by simply enjoying the woods for what they are and not materializing them into something that is ephemeral and no longer adventurous. Those who have never experienced the unique bond of a new climbing area has no crown to which rule upon. This brings strife and makes one very unwelcome. No authority is respected when transient in nature to those who call this home.
I agree that the incorrect information be removed unless this hole is to be dug deeper. These issues smother the spirit of a climbing area.