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West Stronghold
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Behind Sweet Rock 
Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome) 
Hideout Wall 
Isle of You (Ewe) 
Naiche's Nest 
Paleface Slab 
Sheepshead Area (Southwest) 
Squaretop 
Sweet Rock 
Tombstone, The 
Warpath Dome 
Waterfall Dome 
Westworld Dome 
Whale Dome 

West Stronghold 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Geir on Feb 16, 2012

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Evening magic in the West Stronghold

Description 

The West Stronghold is accessed from Middlemarch Road near Tombstone. Geographically the West Stronghold includes a much larger area than the east. Gems include Westworld Dome, Whale Dome, the Sheepshead, and about 1,000 unpublished routes waiting to be repeated.

A Google Earth .kmz file can be downloaded for this area using the link below:

www.geir.com/googleearth/stronghold/west/overview.kmz

Access to this area is a privilege. Be a good steward of Cochise Stronghold by keeping the Leave No Trace principles in mind when visiting here. Below is a partial list of these principles and how they might be applied in the Stronghold. For further information, visit www.lnt.org.

1) Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Stay on trails and avoid damaging surface vegetation. Use established campsites.

2) Dispose of waste properly. Pack out litter. Dispose of human waste in a cathole at least 6-8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water. Do not leave toilet paper out in the wilderness.

3) Leave what you find. Leave rocks, plants, archaeological artifacts and other objects as found.

4) Minimize use and impact of fire. If a campfire is constructed use existing fire rings. Do not cut down trees for firewood. Ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving.

5) Respect wildlife. If enough people approach or interfere with wildlife, it can be disruptive to animal populations.

6) Be considerate of other visitors. Many other people enjoy the area, including bird watchers, hikers, and horseback riders. They have as much right to be there as climbers.


Getting There 

From Tucson take I-10 east to exit 303.

Bear right on to highway 80 and head through Benson (2.2 miles).

Once through Benson keep right on to highway 80 and continue 21.7 miles to Middlemarch Road.

Turn left on Middlemarch road and continue for 9.9 miles. (This is a dirt road and can be rough but is passable by passenger cars so long as the washes are not full of water.)

Turn left on to forest road 687. (The road becomes rougher and is passable by passenger cars only when driven carefully. Your car can be damaged on this road, please be careful). The following mileage measurements are all relative to this intersection:

0.4 miles - Sheepshead parking area, free primitive camping.

2.0 miles - Sweet Rock, Isle of You (Ewe), free primitive camping.

6.5 miles - Parking for Warpath dome approach.

7.2 miles - Large private ranch

10.1 miles - end of the road. Parking for Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Paleface, Ghost Dome, and Squaretop. Free primitive camping.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Stronghold:
Ewephoria   5.7     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 750 feet   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Moby Dick   5.8     Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II   Whale Dome
Isle of You   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 170 feet   Isle of You (Ewe) : Trad Rock
Mystery of the Desert   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead
Ides of Middlemarch   5.9+     Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Absinthe of Mallet   5.9+     Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Unknown (right of stampede)   5.10a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
The Peacemaker   5.10a     Sport, 7 pitches, Grade III   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
The Climb Too Tough To Die   5.10a PG13     Trad, Sport, 6 pitches   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Cragaholic's Dream   5.10a/b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Squaretop
Dem Bones   5.10 R     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 660 feet, Grade III   Whale Dome
Fire in the Hole   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Isle of You (Ewe) : Rad Rock
Warpaint   5.10c PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 680 feet, Grade III   Westworld Dome
Get The Flock Out Of Here   5.10+     Trad, 5 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Tombstone Crack   5.10+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   The Tombstone
Stiletto   5.10+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   The Tombstone
Stampede   5.11a     Sport, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
unknown (left one)   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Mallethead
Coati Corner   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Westworld Dome
Sheep Thrills   5.11     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Crisis Center
Browse More Classics in West Stronghold

Featured Route For West Stronghold
Stu Ritchie on pitch 1 roof

Get The Flock Out Of Here 5.10+  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : The Sheepshead
This is a fun, challenging route with a variety of climbing and quality rock. You will encounter laybacks, slab climbing, a few thin face moves, and some strenuous crack moves. To locate the route, walk about 200' uphill from the start of Ewephoria. Here you will find a clearly defined staging area next to a 30' right facing corner. The first pitch starts on the crack to the right of the corner. Three bolts are visible along the crack.Pitch 1 (5.10, 100'): Climb the crack, passing th...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of West Stronghold Slideshow Add Photo
Ruins on the west side of Cochise Stronghold, AZ

Ruins on the west side of Cochise Stronghold, AZ

On the drive to the West Stronghold, just before sunset.

On the drive to the West Stronghold, just before s...

Sunset from the West Stronghold.

Sunset from the West Stronghold.

Best not to be toking up or have an open container on Middlemarch Road.  Lots of border patrol around these days.

Best not to be toking up or have an open container...

I walked within a foot of this guy.  He was not pleased.

I walked within a foot of this guy. He was not pl...

We saw 3 within 2 days.

We saw 3 within 2 days.

Beautiful area.  Sunset on the West Stronghold.

Beautiful area. Sunset on the West Stronghold.

I think this is an ocotillo.  September 2012.

I think this is an ocotillo. September 2012.

Neat flowers at the base of Warpaint waiting for it to stop raining.  Yeah.  September 2012.

Neat flowers at the base of Warpaint waiting for i...

Tree at the base of Warpaint.  September 2012.

Tree at the base of Warpaint. September 2012.

Tree in the wash headed to Warpaint/Moby Dick.  September 2012.

Tree in the wash headed to Warpaint/Moby Dick. Se...

Flowers near Endgame.  September 2012.

Flowers near Endgame. September 2012.

These were kind of bitter, but maybe they were not ripe yet.  September 2012.

These were kind of bitter, but maybe they were not...

Sunset in the West Stronghold

Sunset in the West Stronghold


Comments on West Stronghold Add Comment
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By John Wason
Feb 5, 2013

My wife and son and I replaced the bashed hanger on pitch 3 (2nd bolt) on Ewephoria last Saturday. The nut and threads seemed to work just fine. John Wason

Max Wason leading pitch 3
Max Wason leading pitch 3
Submitted By: John Wason on Feb 5, 2013