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West Sedona

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Chimney Rock Area 
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West Sedona Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,500'
Location: 34.8618, -111.816 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,071
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 16, 2012
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

West Sedona is a local divide in town, and separated from Sedona proper by the large hill west of the "Y" on 89A.

West Sedona is also the gateway to such classics as Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride 5.9, Mars Attacks 5.9, The Golden Spike 5.11+, and The Red Planet 5.13. These routes, and many more fine lines are spread out across the formations which define the Dry Creek basin, and in the deep canyons that tumble off the rim. It is a stunning landscape.



Getting There 

From the "Y" of 89A and 179, head west on 89A towards Cottonwood. Dry Creek Rd will be several miles down and on the north side of the road.

The GPS coordinates below are for the start of Dry Creek Road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

64 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',33],['5.11',13],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Sedona

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Sedona:
Morning Glory 4th Class Route   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, 200'   Coffeepot Rock Area : Morning Glory Spire
Basketball Dome   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   Dry Creek Road Area : Boynton Canyon
Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Coffeepot Rock Area : Summit Block Rock
Mars Attacks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   Dry Creek Road Area : The Fin
Free Beer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Dry Creek Spires : Beer Bottle Spire
2 Legit 2 Quit    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Bear Mountain Area : Fay Canyon
Black Arrow   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 330'   Dry Creek Spires : Dry Creek Spire
The Happy Ending   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Dry Creek Spires : Dry Creek Spire
The Quiet Storm   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 300'   Coffeepot Rock Area : Summit Block Rock
Tasmanian Devil   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Coffeepot Rock Area : Soldiers Pass
The Great Dihedral    5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 900'   The Great Wall
Big Corner   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Dry Creek Road Area : The Fin
MAJAKOL Line   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Coffeepot Rock Area : Jap Head
Aladdin's Lamp   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dry Creek Road Area : Brins Mesa
Tomahawk Tower   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Dry Creek Road Area : Brins Mesa
Stone IPA   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Dry Creek Spires : Beer Bottle Spire
Oski   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Bear Mountain Area : Fay Canyon
The Golden Spike   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Dry Creek Road Area : H.S. Canyon
Desert Mule   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Dry Creek Road Area : Secret Canyon
Red Planet   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Dry Creek Road Area : The Fin
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Sedona

Featured Route For West Sedona
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Garcia passing the second roof of P1 on The Go...

The Golden Spike 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  AZ : *Sedona Area : ... : H.S. Canyon
This is an outstanding climb up a long, sustained, & aesthetic line on mostly bullet-hard rock. You get some of everything on this route, from tips to chimney, plus a face-y crux. Once at the base, it would be pretty hard to get off-route.P1: (5.11-) Climb the left side of the small pillar, then continue up the clean fingers corner. Pass a small roof to the left, then continue up crack past another roof to 2-bolt anchor with fixed 'biners. (maybe 140'???)P2: (5.11+) Continue up crack, passin...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of West Sedona Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sedona Overview Map
BETA PHOTO: Sedona Overview Map

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