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30 Seconds to All Night S 
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Kinesthesis S 
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That 70 Show T,S 
West Rock Crack T 

West Rock Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FFA: Leif Peterson
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The obvious crack.

Description 

The FINEST legal CRACK in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack.

Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck.

Protection 

Gear to 1"


Comments on West Rock Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Miike
From: MA/CT border
Oct 11, 2013

the anchor is fine considering you can rest and place gear before running it to the anchor
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 11, 2013

I need to get some slippers
By Dan Griffiths
Oct 21, 2013

The start from the deck is hard. Possibly upper 12 range, but I've never seen anyone do it. However, someone with skinny little fingers will cruise it with nice little finger locks. From the block to the left, the first couple moves are every bit of 10+, probably more like 11a/b...and the pro is real small there.
By Leif
Apr 6, 2014

I sent the direct start to this a couple years ago. Protected the first moves by stacking some itty bittys. It is strenuous. 5.11 maybe but only for a couple moves. Fun route!