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Pilot Mtn.
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West Ridge T 

West Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Sep 6, 2013

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Looking east at the ridge. Falcon Lake visible th...

Description 

This is the easiest route to the summit. Stay right on the ridge for some great exposure, or drift to the left for some slab climbing. The approach gully is obvious from the tarns below, but if you are approaching after summiting Mt. Alice, descend the SE slopes, and begin traversing south as soon as you can. Contour around until you are just below the first high point on the ridge extending east from the Divide south of Mt. Alice. Look for a narrow 100' 4th class gully that is choked with loose rock and delivers you to a saddle with fantastic views of the basin below.

Descend the larger gully to the NE about 150', until you can traverse east on narrow ledges to the start of the route.

Location 

Approach via the Lion Lakes trail,or from the west after a climb of Mt. Alice. One could also head straight uphill from Thunder Lake to the bench to the east, following the creek near the backcountry campsites.

Protection 

A few wires and slings, if you want gear. This is a mellow but exposed solo too.


Photos of West Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at Falcon Lake from the summit.
Looking down at Falcon Lake from the summit.
What you can't really see from this shot is the wild exposure to climber's right.
What you can't really see from this shot is the wi...
One potential route follows the Hourglass Ridge up Mt. Alice, and then summits Pilot on the descent.
One potential route follows the Hourglass Ridge up...
The view of Pilot Mtn. from the north, on the approach to Mt. Alice.  The gully is on the right, and the route follows the skyline ridge to the high point.
The view of Pilot Mtn. from the north, on the appr...
A view looking west from the summit.  Mt. Alice, the descent route from Alice via the SE face, the traverse, and the gully are all visible in the shot.
A view looking west from the summit. Mt. Alice, t...

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