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Pagoda Mountain
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West Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ???
Season: summer
Page Views: 3,626
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Sep 16, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The west ridge is the right hand skyline.

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Description 

Uber good route with a wilderness feeling and great position. Huck it past Spearheard and ascend the gully between Pagoda and Chiefs Head. This gully can have snow, ice, and rock fall in it year round(axe & pons??), we avoided this by scrambling rock on the left.

Once at the saddle, the climbing begins. We gained the ridge on the south side which I thought was the 5.7 crux. Once on the ridge, the climbing is straightforward and trends on the south side of the ridge with a few gendarmes to ascend and down climb.

Descend down the northeast ridge to the saddle between Pagoda and the Keyboards, then turn northwest down the scree and talus slope.

Protection 

Alpine rack with up to a #3 BD Camalot.


Photos of West Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Last slabby push to the summit.
Last slabby push to the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bypassing a gendarme on the north side.
Bypassing a gendarme on the north side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter.
Splitter.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pagoda Mountain from the summit of Spearhead.
Pagoda Mountain from the summit of Spearhead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam takes a break before continuing on to Long's.
Adam takes a break before continuing on to Long's.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is how we climbed it, although there are a nu...
BETA PHOTO: This is how we climbed it, although there are a nu...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.7 slabby crux, first 15 feet is the hardest ...
The 5.7 slabby crux, first 15 feet is the hardest ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pagoda (and Long's) from the summit of Chiefshead.
Pagoda (and Long's) from the summit of Chiefshead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing one of the gendarmes.
Passing one of the gendarmes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam starts toward the W Ridge from Chiefshead.
Adam starts toward the W Ridge from Chiefshead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back at Chiefshead.
Looking back at Chiefshead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hand traverse made even more fun with gusty winds.
Hand traverse made even more fun with gusty winds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the start of Pagoda's West Ridge.
Near the start of Pagoda's West Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Will and Adam navigate the slabs on the W Ridge.
Will and Adam navigate the slabs on the W Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sizing up the crux.
Sizing up the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: More cruiser terrain.
More cruiser terrain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the summit the difficulty eases.
Near the summit the difficulty eases.

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