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 ADVANCED
Pagoda Mountain
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West Ridge T 

West Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ???
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,310
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Sep 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The west ridge is the right hand skyline.

Description 

Uber good route with a wilderness feeling and great position. Huck it past Spearheard and ascend the gully between Pagoda and Chiefs Head. This gully can have snow, ice, and rock fall in it year round(axe & pons??), we avoided this by scrambling rock on the left.

Once at the saddle, the climbing begins. We gained the ridge on the south side which I thought was the 5.7 crux. Once on the ridge, the climbing is straightforward and trends on the south side of the ridge with a few gendarmes to ascend and down climb.

Descend down the northeast ridge to the saddle between Pagoda and the Keyboards, then turn northwest down the scree and talus slope.

Protection 

Alpine rack with up to a #3 BD Camalot.


Photos of West Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Passing one of the gendarmes.
Passing one of the gendarmes.
Splitter.
Splitter.
Will and Adam navigate the slabs on the W Ridge.
Will and Adam navigate the slabs on the W Ridge.
Pagoda Mountain from the summit of Spearhead.
Pagoda Mountain from the summit of Spearhead.
Looking back at Chiefshead.
Looking back at Chiefshead.
This is how we climbed it, although there are a nu...
BETA PHOTO: This is how we climbed it, although there are a nu...
Pagoda (and Long's) from the summit of Chiefshead.
Pagoda (and Long's) from the summit of Chiefshead.
More cruiser terrain.
More cruiser terrain.
Adam starts toward the W Ridge from Chiefshead.
Adam starts toward the W Ridge from Chiefshead.
Last slabby push to the summit.
Last slabby push to the summit.
Hand traverse made even more fun with gusty winds.
Hand traverse made even more fun with gusty winds.
Adam takes a break before continuing on to Long's.
Adam takes a break before continuing on to Long's.

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