West Ridge 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Spring - Fall |
| Submitted By: | Karsten on Mar 22, 2006 |
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Climbers coming up the West Ridge Photo by Michiel...
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Description This climb mainly goes up easier terrain on solid rock. The most distinctive pitch is near the top and goes up a short exposed slab (5.7). Otherwise the climbing is 5.5 or easier. Stay fairly close to the ridge proper looking for easiest path. Spectacular position and fun climbing make this a classic. It would see 100X the traffic if you didn't have to hike 6 hrs to get to it.
Location Coming up from Icicle canyon traverse the west side of the lake and climb to the top of the saddle on the west side of the peak. The route begin to the right up the prominent ridge.
A few rappels on the north side of the peak will get you back to easier ground. Downclimb the route.
Protection Nuts and pro to 3 inches. There are no bolts but may be slings for anchors.
BETA PHOTO: West Ridge is the ridge on the left.
Photo by Blit...
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Traversing along the ridge.
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Looking out into the Enchantments from the base of...
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The upper pitch of the route traverses out right a...
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West ridge and south face of Prusik.
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West Ridge of Prusik Peak
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Easy but exposed climbing on Prusik's West Ridge
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Bob Margulis styling the slabby crux moves.
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W. ridge
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W. ridge
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By rpc
Mar 21, 2008
| My wife & I did this in a car-to-car effort the summer we started climbing. A nice route up a great peak. |
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Aug 4, 2008
| Climbed it car to car in 12 hours. For gear, we brought a single run of .5 to 2 camalots, a half dozen nuts, and a 60 m twin doubled over. This setup worked well and let us hike with very light packs. |
By chrishar
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.7
| There are slings at all belay stations, and the descent consists of 5 - 60m single rope rappels from the summit - very straightforward. Also, it should be noted that there appear to be bail slings from most belay stations so getting down is very possible if you can't complete the route for any reason. It's a surprisingly friendly route from that perspective, and probably due to the sheer amount of traffic it draws. |
By Stephen Davis
Feb 27, 2011
| We did this route with a 50 meter twin rope doubled in half, and it was very doable (including rappels). You can also save time on the rappels if you just down climb a few short sections, we only did three of them. You don't need to bring a number 3 camalot; and if I brought doubles of any sizes it would only be #1 and #2. Though doubles are not really necessary if you're a 5.8-5.9 climber, this route takes great gear wherever you want to put it. |
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