L to R R to L Alpha
This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu:
Bushwack Crack 5.8 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
Fading Light 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches
Sirens of Titan 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch
Purple Haze 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches
Born Under Punches 5.10a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Chockstone 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, 165 feet
Friends in High Places 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches
Laughing at the Moon 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch
Whiplash 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch
Chock Suey 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Between the Cracks 5.10+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Muscular Dystrophy 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches
Prince of Darkness 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch
Jericho 5.11c R Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Superstone 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Featured Route For West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
The Bat 5.9+ PG13 CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...
Start as for Muscular Dystrophy, but where MD cuts left 12' up from the handcrack to a finger crack, place a 2" or 2.5" cam and cut ever so slightly left to a flake and seam. A questionable medium nut can go behind the flake, and up and high right some micro cams or a small TCU can be placed with a little reach, in an open spot in the seam. This is visible from the ground. Move up past those moves (10a, crux?) to a stance where you can reach around to the right and s...[more] Browse More Classics in CO