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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
Bat, The T 
Between the Cracks T 
Blackout T 
Born Under Punches T 
Bushwack Crack T 
Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
Fading Light T 
Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Tilt Right T 
Whiplash T 

West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu  

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Location: 39.93325, -105.28897 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.

Some may call this section of the ridge, the North Buttress. It does seem somewhat distinct from the rest of the West Ridge. Descents off the top can be done generally going left to the gully between The West Ridge & Rincon.

Note, there is still loose rock in sections here. Consider a helmet. Don't forget good judgment. If you come play here, you may be smiling for days.

There are many fine routes in this section of the West Ridge. Routes here vary from 1 to 3 pitches in length. These include: the fun Knight's Move, 5.7; the devious Purple Haze, 5.9; the varied Chockstone, 5.10a - don't short-change yourself with only 1 pitch; Laughing at the Moon, 5.10b; the exquisite Prince of Darkness, 5.11a; the technical Jericho, 5.11c; Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the impressive Ministry of Fear, 5.11d vs; among others.

This is a traditionally-protected area so bring your rack if you visit this section.

For you history buffs, there is an interesting story about how the bold, Alec Sharp spent a sleepless night prior to firing off his intimidating Ministry of Fear in the old publication Bolder Boulder. Many of us ordinary folks with real jobs might spend a sleepless night before putting up a 5.9 s or 5.10 s route.

Again, it's worth the walk.

Getting There 

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.3 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu:
Bushwack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
Fading Light   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Sirens of Titan   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Purple Haze   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Born Under Punches   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chockstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 165'   
Friends in High Places   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Chock Suey   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Laughing at the Moon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Whiplash   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Between the Cracks   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Muscular Dystrophy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Prince of Darkness   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Jericho   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Superstone   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

Featured Route For West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
The wide start of Ice 9.

Ice Nine 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...
This is the wide, crooked crack that is easily spotted as you turn the corner around the North Buttress of the West Ridge. It is just right of Prince of Darkness and Sirens of Titan.The first 20 feet are very wide but easy. After enjoying a seat on a pinnacle, you do a fun, rightwards hand traverse and pull up into a left-facing corner that you follow to the end. The last twenty feet of the corner protect beautifully on hand-size and smaller pieces, but will feel a l...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 25, 2007
From ECSP: There has been a major rock slide on the Rincon talus slope so please use extreme caution when crossing to the Rincon routes.
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