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This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
30 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu:
Bushwack Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
Fading Light 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Sirens of Titan 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Purple Haze 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Born Under Punches 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Chockstone 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 165'
Friends in High Places 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Laughing at the Moon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Whiplash 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Chock Suey 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Between the Cracks 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Muscular Dystrophy 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
Prince of Darkness 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
Jericho 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Superstone 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
S&M 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...
This is a 150 foot pitch just 30 feet south of Chockstone. This one does not get climbed much, it has lots of loose rock and vegetation, also the pro is there but very thin at bottom and hard to find before crux. Start just left of Xanadu in a right-facing corner with no pro, traverse left after 10 feet into another, more pronounced, left-facing corner and cruise to the top and turn roof on left (sketchy pro) and get into fist crack in a left-facing dihedral. Cruise up ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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