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This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
30 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu:
Bushwack Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
Sirens of Titan 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Purple Haze 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Chockstone 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 165'
Friends in High Places 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Laughing at the Moon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Whiplash 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Muscular Dystrophy 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
Prince of Darkness 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
Featured Route For West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Fading Light 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...
Thirty feet left of Chockstone on the North Buttress area of the West Ridge, straight above the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy, find two closely parallel, right-facing dihedrals that start thirty feet off the ground and culminate in a blocky overhang a hundred feet higher. The righthand of the two dihedrals is Byobu; the left is Fading Light.Approach via the starting dog-leg crack of Muscular Dystrophy, or scramble up blocks to the belay ledge...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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