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This is the second highest section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends from Xanadu to Pony Express, since these are well-known, easily identified routes. This section is the most crack-rich section of the ridge. As a result, it has a different feel than most of the rest of The West Ridge. Count on at least a 25 minutes approach.
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
61 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express:
Fine Line 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Funeral March 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch
X 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Xanadu 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Positively Fourth Street 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Air Mail 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Zap Snack 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Zip Code 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Parallels 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
Tango 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Terminal Velocity 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Bit by Bit 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
The Formula 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch
Foxtrot 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch
Iron Pony 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Crazy Fingers 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Terminal Velocity 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part D - Xanad...
This route is the obvious, left-facing corner just left of "Handcrack" on upper West Ridge. The crux is a thin section about 20 feet up that is protected by small RPs. The last 20', a beautiful stemming corner, is also fairly challenging but has much more reassuring protection. Once above this corner, traverse left 5' to the rap slings used by Handcrack. This quality pitch is somewhat diminished by huge ledge between the hard sections and the fact that at some points,...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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