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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail 
Barbie Doll Arete, The 
Bit by Bit 
Clean Dan 
Coffee Break with Joe 
Cold Turkey 
Coniferous Types 
Crazy Fingers 
Cruising Lane 
Detour, The 
Doc's Little Brother 
Dr. Michael Solar 
Duh Dihedral 
Early Bird Special 
Fine Line 
Fork in the Road 
Formula, The 
Funeral March 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 
Hang Ten 
Highway 61 
Inverted Vee 
Iron Pony 
Kubla Khan 
Lady Fingers 
Lunar Avenue 
Lunar Lander 
Masterbator's Edge, The 
Milk and Honey 
Milk Dreams 
MRJR (aka MB III) 
Pool of Blood 
Positively Fourth Street 
River Of Darkness 
Road Narrows 
Sign of the Cross 
Snail Mail 
Terminal Velocity 
Texas Two-Step 
Three Lane Highway 
Toprope Right of Formula 
Trip Itch 
Willow World 
Working Class Hero 
Zap Snack 
Zip Code 

West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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This is the second highest section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends from Xanadu to Pony Express, since these are well-known, easily identified routes. This section is the most crack-rich section of the ridge. As a result, it has a different feel than most of the rest of The West Ridge. Count on at least a 25 minutes approach.

Note, this section includes some of the loosest sections of the ridge in a section referred to as "The (sic) Construction Zone" by some.

Most routes in this section are single pitch in length. However, recent development have pushed routes into the upper stretches of a section referred to as "The Rotten Wall" by R. Rossiter in his well-received guidebooks. Some of the better lines here include: the intimidating Duh Dihedral, 5.6; the delightful Positively Fourth Street, 5.9+; Xanadu, 5.10a; the fun Hand Crack, 5.10b; the hidden gem Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the fun Zip Code, 5.11b; the demanding Parallels, 5.11b s; the delicious Terminal Velocity, 5.11b/c s; the amazing Bit by Bit, 5.11c/d; the technical Foxtrot, 5.11d s; among others.

To approach this area, you park at the W end of Eldorado Canyon State Park, hike the Eldorado Canyon Trail to the Rincon Trail, boulder hop across the talus and drop down and right to this section of the ridge. It may be more enjoyable to hike up the base of the West Ridge via stream crossing at Milton Boulder or hiking from the East end of the park. Time-wise, it's probably close either way.

Most of these routes is use descents of rappelling. Walkoffs will generally be time-consuming in this section of the ridge.

Note, there is some loose rock in the area.

Getting There 

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.


61 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',7]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express:
Fine Line   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Funeral March   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
X   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Xanadu   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Positively Fourth Street   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Air Mail   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Zap Snack   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Zip Code   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Parallels   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Tango   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Terminal Velocity   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bit by Bit   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
The Formula   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Foxtrot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Iron Pony   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Crazy Fingers   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Featured Route For West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
A beautiful December by Tony Bubb hanging on a rappel line.

Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part D - Xanad...
Imaginative name, but a fine pitch with clean, varied jamming and plentiful protection. The crux, in fact, is fingers - but the steep hand jamming above is quite good.The Hand Crack is located in an enclave of the upper West Ridge called the Cirque of the Cracks (a fittingly vague name since the West Ridge comprises 2000 feet of cirques and cracks). Fifty meters uphill from the Quartzite Ridge, locate an alcove with several obvious, chalked crack lines. Look for a steep hand crack (the Hand C...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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