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This is the second highest section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends from Xanadu to Pony Express, since these are well-known, easily identified routes. This section is the most crack-rich section of the ridge. As a result, it has a different feel than most of the rest of The West Ridge. Count on at least a 25 minutes approach.
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
61 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express:
Funeral March 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Fine Line 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Air Mail 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch
Positively Fourth Street 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Xanadu 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Zap Snack 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Texas Two-Step 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Zip Code 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Parallels 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
Tango 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Terminal Velocity 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Bit by Bit 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Foxtrot 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch
Iron Pony 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
The Formula 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch
The Masterbator's Edge 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
The Barbie Doll Arete 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Crazy Fingers 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
MRJR (aka MB III) 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Featured Route For West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Parallels 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part D - Xanad...
About three quarters way up the West Ridge just past an area devoid of good rock is the Cirque Of Cracks. One of the highlights of this area is the route Parallels (junk rock on its left and 2 more excellent looking thin crack looking lines to its right). None of these routes employ a lot of crack climbing but Parallels has the most...The guide gives it a "s" rating but I think its actually a safe lead. You do have to bust a move at the crux before placing a piece...Then only slightly run out on...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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