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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys 
Bloke On The Side 
Bridget the Midget 
Byway 
Chick on the Side 
Conversions 
Court Jester 
Crazy Stairs 
Curving Dihedral 
Dandi-Line 
Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
Going Postal 
Good Ship Venus 
Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
Quiet Desperation 
Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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West Ridge Part C (vicinity of Sooberb).
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This section is the middle of the West Ridge and may be considered by some to be the heart. In some ways, it does feel meatier than other sections. It is arbitrarily defined by the well-known Pony Express and Long John Wall. The name for this section is abbreviated to help fit screens.

This section has some of the best rock along the ridge, but still it has significant loose sections, especially up and right from Pony Express/Mescaline.

Interestingly, this section of the ridge seems to have some seen of the earlier forays in 1965 by P. Ament on Rhombohedral, The Mail Ridge, & Sooberb.

Some of the entrees here include: the beefy Mesca-Line, 5.7; Ignominity, 5.9; the filling P1 of Pony Express, 5.9; the hearty Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the robust Muscle and Hate, 5.11a; the classic Practice Climb 101 to Sidewall (i.e. Practice Wall, 5.11a s); the hungrier-sized Pony Express, 5.11c; the demanding Iron Horse, 5.11c s; the test-piece The Reckoning, 5.12d; among others. There are plenty of other, more-obscure moderate lines here if the popular classics are occupied, so a open mind is helpful on busy weekends here.

It can get quite warm in this section on hot days. Shade will be hard to find when the sun shines here. Don't forget sunscreen for the melanin-challenged!

Best to bring your rack here, for without it, there are slim pickings, maybe one? sport route Barrel of Monkeys, 5.11++.

It's probably wiser to figure out your descent options before heading up above the first pitches here. Most will involve rappelling.

Approach is best via stream crossing at the Milton Boulder or the standard approach from the east end of the park, hiking along the trail parallel to the creek below Redgarden Wall, over the slick, 3rd-class ramp, and then up the west side of the West Ridge.

This section tends to be some of the more popular along the West Ridge.


Getting There 

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Enjoy!


56 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',14],['5.10',14],['5.11',12],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John:
Mesca-Line   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Sooberb Lite   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Lightning Bolt Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Ignominity   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Sister Morphine   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code)   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Handcracker Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   
variation to Mail Ridge   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Sooberb   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Practice Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Side Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Iron Horse   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pony Express   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Barrel of Monkeys   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
False Prophet   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Warp Drive Overload   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Practice Climb 101   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
Reckoning   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Featured Route For West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
TR'ing, on the upper crux. A couple hard moves get you to a big hold, but it's still pumpy after that. Unbroken Chain is the undercling flake down and left from Adrien.

The Side Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part C - Pony ...
The Side Wall is one of the classic 5.11 lines on the West Ridge. It is a tad dangerous, but a bit of care placing gear under the roof may result in adequate protection. Perhaps 10 minutes from the stream, and past the Unsaid area, find a sheltered alcove off the trail and up a short stretch of scrambling. This is one of the better protected west-facing areas in Eldo and is a great hang on those splitter winter days.The central, main corner is the route, and begins up a short, awkward sub-dih...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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