Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock 
Atom Smasher 
Break on Through 
Break On Through to Chianti 
Chianti 
Clear-a-Sill 
Cruisin' for Burgers 
Ein Kluck 
Ghetto Blaster 
Gibbet, The 
Incarnation 
Long John Wall 
Next to Nearly 
Rictus 
Rock For Climbing Routes To 
Shock Of the New 
Strawberry Shortcut 
Sunshine Wall 
Toothsheaf Transfusion 
Unlead, The 
Unsaid, The 
Uranus 
Varieties Of Religious Experience 
Washington Irving 
White Rabbit 

West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,284'
Location: 39.9314, -105.2879 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 112,336
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Chance of Rain
60° | 43°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
63° | 41°
Chance of Rain
64° | 44°
Partly Cloudy
73° | 44°
Clear
62° | 34°
Garrett cruising through thin finger on "The Unsai...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This section might be considered the lower-middle section of the West Ridge. It is arbitrarily defined by the well-known Long John Wall and Verscheidung. The name for this section is abbreviated to help fit screens but lengthened so that you know the margins more clearly.

This section of the ridge appears to contain the second foray onto the ridge, Long John Wall, by Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, & Wayne Goss in 1965.

This area does have excellent stone, with some desert-like varnish in spots; however, still there are loose sections in places. Consider a helmet.

There are classics here including: the surprisingly-popular Washington Irving, 5.6; the blood-pumping Chianti, 5.8+; the longer Long John Wall, 5.8+; popular The Unsaid, 5.9; Handcracker Direct, 5.10a; Break on Through, 5.10a; among others.

Like other areas on The West Ridge, without a rack, your options are limited. Some sport-ish-like routes like the interesting Varieties of a Religious Experience, 5.11b & the stout Atom Smasher, 5.12c, will still require a rack to approach it and to supplement the fixed hardware.

Most routes will use a rappel descent. It's best to figure this out in advance to getting off the ground.

While this is some of the cleaner parts of the West Ridge, you still have to be cognizant of loose rock in some part of this section.


Getting There 

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung:
Washington Irving   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Long John Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   
Break On Through to Chianti   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Chianti   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Unsaid   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Strawberry Shortcut   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Break on Through   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Cruisin' for Burgers   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Varieties Of Religious Experience   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R     Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Featured Route For West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Long John Wall, first three pitches.

Long John Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part B - Long ...
Start to the left of a large overhang and just right of a large, right-facing dihedral. Watch out for poison ivy near the start.P1: Start up the easy ramp and grovel up left through an awkward slot. Climb a thin slab with marginal small pro, traverse back right, and continue up a crack to a decent ledge (7).P1 variation 1 (5.8): Start on Break on Through, 20' to the right. Climb the layback corner, go up a ramp, turn the overhanging corner on the left, and traverse left to the first belay on Long ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -