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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
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West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

West Pole Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Ebner, Dennis Grabnegger, and John Markwell (from Barnes, 2nd ed)
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Kristan Markey on Sep 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Left-facing finger crack arches into a sustained fist and off-width crack. Loose block about half-way up that would be a great hold. Move right onto a balancy position to avoid (the hands are good, just find them),then back into the crack. Even the topout is fun!


From the West Pole belay/rappel rings look up at the crack and right facing corner. Or look 20 ft left from Conn's West rap tree.


Standard Seneca rack plus a few larger pieces (1-2 BD #4s) for the off-width sections. Takes good gear including hexes.

After your party is up, you can belay them over the top of the fin and down the scramble (4th class) or the direct down climb to thr summit notch.

Note: you can use the rap anchor at the base of the pitch to build a belay, but on busy days, please just look left to thr crack and the build an easy gear anchor to keep folks moving off the summit.

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By ARMoss
Sep 27, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really fun lead with some nice corner stemming and jamming to get you to the top. If you just climbed West Pole and the grade's scaring you away, don't let it. This is the same grade or easier, and not entirely a different style (no real hero moves, though). I graded it 5.8 only because that's what I think West Pole ought to come in at.

There's loose rock here and there, especially at the top, where you really need to be careful where you step and what you pull on. Otherwise, though, great route! Nice way to top out.

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