West Pillar  5.9

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Gary Colliver and Mike Cohen, 1972 Submitted By:  Michael Schneiter on Feb 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Eichorn's Pinnacle with the West Pillar route visi...

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Description 

The West Pillar route is a fun route and a great link-up with a route on Cathedral Peak. When linking these two routes, you effectively make a loop, hiking out on the John Muir trail, instead of the Cathedral Peak approach trail. The first pitch begins with a wide crack (5.9). There are two ways to go on the next section. The original route moves right and climbs 5.9 cracks to a horn in one pitch and climbs back left via 5.7 and 5.8 climbing in the next pitch. A direct route is also possible at 5.10 and is popular. This variation climbs directly above the first pitch belay for two pitches, both 5.10, and meets up with the original route where you can belay on the ridge. The 4th pitch is mostly 3rd class and ledgey with some 5th class terrain. It traverses underneath the ridge proper. The final pitch appeared to have some options but should stay left of the ridge, climbing one section of 5.8 and easier climbing before the summit.

Location 

If climbing Eichorn's West Pillar after Cathedral, you will have to descend Cathedral to the ground and traverse around Cathedral to the west to reach the West Pillar route. If climbing the West Pillar route from the car, approach via the John Muir trail and Eichorn's West Pillar route is visible from the trail. The West Pillar route starts with an obvious, wide crack. Descent from Eichorn's is possible with one rope via a rappel from the summit.

Protection 

Nuts, double set of cams to #1 Camalot and single set of cams to #4 Camalot. One rope.

Photos of West Pillar Slideshow

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West Pillar on Eichorn's Pinnacle.	West Pillar on Eichorn's Pinnacle.	BETA PHOTO: the first pitch
P1 on the West Pillar of Eichorn's. Photo: Corey...	3rd class terrain along the summit ridge. P4. Ph...	Cathedral Lakes from the summit ridge of Eichorn's...
You pull over the boulder and the incredible view ...