West Owl Direct aka Silly Putty 

The first pitch of this route is an excellent 5.9 flake crack. Definitely worthwhile by itself. In addition once installed on top of the flake, you can toprope the really cool (but not very protectable) dihedral to the right, which is about 5.11+.

One can rap with a 60m rope from the anchor below the roof down to the top of the 5.9 flake. Plus, the anchor below the roof now sports a spankin' new bolt as of 02/2002.

I wasn't too happy with the rap anchor at the top of the 5.9 flake. It's a bunch of decent slings over a big horn, but there is a horizontal fracture line at the base of the horn. Beware.

I climb the 5.9 flake, and it was worth it. It looks easy but is for sure a Lumpy 9. We did top rope the dihedral, Eric did a great job. The horn at the belay does seem sketchy, but I gave it a couple headbutts and it seemed to hold.

I'd recommend changing the route name in the database to Silly Putty as the free ascent is really what counts and there is a long tradition of renaming routes once they've been free'd...almost every route at Lumpy can be clean aided, so why bother with these ratings/old names?

Replaced the second anchor bolt on this yesterday and put quick links on the two new bolts.

This route felt much harder than the neighboring Coyote and every other 12a I've done at Lumpy or Eldo, so I'd suggest a 12b rating. The pro is really good if you've got the right sized pieces and can hang-on to put them in, so not really any R on this pitch- a brown tri-cam is key at the crux (15' up).

The rock here is extra crumbly and on numerous laps I was losing many footholds each go- so can't give it many stars. It could use a 100 clean aid ascents in boots to scrape off the outer crust and then it might be worthy of many star status. There is one fixed angle 1/2 way up that is not super solid and an ancient 1/4" bolt just below the anchor, but I stepped left to avoid this altogether.

Just a comment about changing names of routes. The name chosen by the 1st ascent party was to identify the line climbed, not the style of climbing. If there is substantial variation between an original aid route and a free ascent, no problem. If the line is unchanged, why does anyone have the right to change the name? Just askin'.