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 ADVANCED
Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 
Anaconda T 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak TR 
Bloop T 
Bowels of the Owls, The T 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney T 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 
Condones T 
Copperhead 
Coyote T,S 
Crack of Fear T 
East Ridge T 
Fist Fight T 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam T 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems T 
Organ Pipes T 
Parachute Pants T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Pin Route T 
Prow, The T 
Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Rattler 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
Thimbleberry Jam T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Tiger's Tooth T 
Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
Viper 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
Wolf's Tooth T 
Unsorted Routes:

West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a C2 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a C2 [details]
FA: Bill Eubank and Brad Van Diver
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: paco on Apr 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The Owls West face routes.

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Description 

Located between Coyote and Anaconda, West Owl Direct was 1st free climbed by John Bachar and Douglas Snively in the '70s and renamed Silly Putty. As a freeclimb, it's still a Lumpy Ridge runout testpiece, but it's still an enjoyable aid climb, as well. West Owl Direct is a step up in difficulty from Anaconda; however, the quality of the rock is not as good. Much of the way you're dealing with banged-out pin scars, yet this climb also places you in one of the best positions on Twin Owls.

Protection 

If aid climbing, bring a standard clean aid rack and extra TCUs. Lead one long pitch (60m?) to the roof, or belay on the top of the 5.9 flake and then fire to the roof from there. The anchor below roof has old bolts, but one can back it up with a crack above. From this belay, escape out left and continue up above the Wolf's Tooth column. P.S. Don't use the bunk anchors halfway up to the roof!


Photos of West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) Slideshow Add Photo
The route follows the large grey dihedral to the o...
The route follows the large grey dihedral to the o...
Looking straight up the route.  Climber Gary Kilbo...
Looking straight up the route. Climber Gary Kilbo...

Comments on West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Feb 19, 2002

The first pitch of this route is an excellent 5.9 flake crack. Definitely worthwhile by itself. In addition once installed on top of the flake, you can toprope the really cool (but not very protectable) dihedral to the right, which is about 5.11+.
By paco
Feb 21, 2002

One can rap with a 60m rope from the anchor below the roof down to the top of the 5.9 flake. Plus, the anchor below the roof now sports a spankin' new bolt as of 02/2002.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 10, 2003

I wasn't too happy with the rap anchor at the top of the 5.9 flake. It's a bunch of decent slings over a big horn, but there is a horizontal fracture line at the base of the horn. Beware.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 24, 2009

I climb the 5.9 flake, and it was worth it. It looks easy but is for sure a Lumpy 9. We did top rope the dihedral, Eric did a great job. The horn at the belay does seem sketchy, but I gave it a couple headbutts and it seemed to hold.
By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b C2 R

Twin Owls goodness.
Twin Owls goodness.
By bob bradley
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Sep 20, 2012

Just a comment about changing names of routes. The name chosen by the 1st ascent party was to identify the line climbed, not the style of climbing. If there is substantial variation between an original aid route and a free ascent, no problem. If the line is unchanged, why does anyone have the right to change the name? Just askin'.
By topher donahue
Oct 11, 2013

I'm with Bob. Leave the original name and leave the original free rating of .12a R. Unless you practice it and rehearse the gear, it's a scary lead. For grade, it's about spot on with other granite, .12a, trad testpieces. The onsight lead deserves an R rating but is a lot of fun and can be made safe enough. Tri-cams do help in the square pin scars. According to legend, after the FFA Bachar first said it was .11a or so - me thinks he was climbing really well at the time.

Another good bit of trivia for this route is that Meg Noffsinger led the 5.11+ that it usually top-roped on the right side of the starting flake. I don't think she got it clean, but she still got up it on the sharp end without decking, which on that kind of lead is what really matters. Burly girly. Anyone else besides Meg ever led that pitch?