The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
A small cragging cliff, that is, ehem, west of the river just past the Court of the Patriarchs pulloff. The name of the cliff is taken from Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Utah guidebook.
The routes are short, not too clean (except a few) and the top is loose, sloping, and not easy for belaying. Basically, the quality isn't the highest but the routes are nice for a quick cragging session.
Seen from the road, there are a number of cracks on the face and in corners just a short walk up from the river.
Drive up the main canyon road toward the Court of Patriarchs. Go just beyond that viewpoint and look for a large, paved pulloff on the west (left) side of the road. There are a couple trails heading down to the river. Cross and look for another faint trail that heads up to the cliff. A horse trail intersects this trail and parallels the river.
Be careful not to erode the hillside. Also watch out for horse trains of tourists coming by and irritating horse train leaders who tell you to be careful so they don't have to come rescue you.
A clean crack that requires either fat fingers or small hands. This route is immediately left of the dihedral on the right end of the cliff. A splitter crack up the cliff with the crux (for me at least) coming in the first 10 feet where the crack is off hands, but too big for fingers.Watch out on the exit to the cliff top as there is no pro and the rock is sandy and a little loose. TR and belay from the big tree to the right.The route is enjoyable and definitely worth doing. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT