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 ADVANCED
The Citadel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biltong Rides Tornado S 
Blood Brother S 
Citadel of Hope, The S 
Fun Planet S 
Funk Soul Brother S 
Paladin S 
Right About Now S 
West of Hell S 

West of Hell 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: BJ Tilden
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Aug 30, 2008

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Description 

One full route left of the Citadel. The first half of this route is not great quality rock. There is a difficult sequence between bolt 3 and 4 involving a long reach to a right hand crimper and then crossing through to a left hand sidepull and up to a right hand jug. One more bolt leads to a large horizontal that splits this section of the cliff. You get basically a no hands rest at the break.

After this the rock quality and the quality of movement improve drastically. There are 3 sequential sequences up the headwall separated by fairly decent rest stations. Expect to be reaching far between positive crimps, gastons, sidepulls, and pockets. The route sneaks left after the last bolt to the anchor. Overall a quality line, even if the start is a little crumbly.

Protection 

Twelve bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.


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