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This satellite of Mt. Moran gets little traffic but is seen and admired by every party climbing the nearby CMC Route. Eye-catching and dramatic, the formation has some good climbing and you're unlikely to share the summit with another party.
Leave the CMC Camp and head up towards Drizzlepuss as one would for an ascent of the CMC. The wall to your east is all part of the West Horn. Climbers aiming for the East Ridge should watch for a conspicuous gap in the east ridge of the Horn, with a prominent tower separated from the upper ridge. A short distance above this gap is a gully with a short headwall in it, and this gully leads onto the ridge itself. This is the start of the climbing for the East Ridge route.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Horn:
East Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'
Featured Route For West Horn
East Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b WY : Grand Teton National Park : West Horn
Refer to the approach information for the West Horn. Ascend the aforementioned gully, climbing the headwall and attaining easy ground leading to the base of the upper ridge. Start the first pitch just west of the crest. Follow the broad ridge above with many variations possible for three more pitches, mostly slabby climbing, with one small sub-tower before the last pitch to the top. This tower has an airy hand traverse along its top and is a distinctive feature of the climb. Descent: fr...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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