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 ADVANCED
West Gully

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charon's Boat S 
Dragon Direct T 
Knight of Swords S 
Merlin's Enigma S 
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 

West Gully 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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Description 

The West Gully lies just beyond the Wall of the Goddess. It is a steep gully with no established trail. Be careful scrambling in this area, as there is some loose rock and bushes to deal with.

Richard Rossiter established five routes here in 2005.

L->R:

A. Merlin's Enigma, 11+, 1p, 4 bolts. V-dihedral to roof.
B. Charon's Boat, 9+, 1p, 3 bolts. Corner to hand traverse.
C. Knight of Swords, 10, 1p, 5 bolts. Steep face by big boulder.
D. Dragon Direct, 9, 1p, 70', 2 bolts & gear to 2".
E. Sorcerer's Apprentice, 7+, 1p, 3 bolts, optional gear.


Getting There 

Continue left past the Wall of the Goddess and drop down to a pile of boulders. The West Gully rises immediately to the right.


Climbing Season


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Gully:
Knight of Swords   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in West Gully

Featured Route For West Gully
Dragon Direct.  Start in the gully about 30' uphill from Knight of Wands.  Make several hard moves past the two bolts at the start.  Easier climbing leads to a 2-bolt anchor.

Dragon Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : West Gully
Look for 2 bolts up and right from the Knight of Swords. Make steep moves past the bolts, then cruise on gear to a 2-bolt ring anchor near the top. One may also continue to the beautiful ledge at the top of the ramp that runs along the Wall of the Dragon. I had a sling with a good locking carabiner around a tree here so you could rappel back into the gully, but some assohole ripped it off. I thought this was Avalon in Boulder Canyon, but maybe it's just another Third World count...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for West Gully
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News
Aug 29 Bentgate Is Hiring: Backcountry Ski Tech 0
Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts   4
Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4

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Upcoming Events
Sep 20Mickey Mouse Re-bolt Day
Sep 26Reel Rock 2014 - South Denver
Photos of West Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper Animal World.
BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...
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