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Spire Four
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West Gruesome T 

West Gruesome 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jan and Herb Conn
Page Views: 1,514
Submitted By: Jon Marek on Feb 4, 2010

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This is a climb worth dedicating some time to. The...

Description 

Awesome way to start a day, little bit of exposure to start second pitch.


Location 

From top of 3-4 gully walk to base of third spire on left and climb chimney to west face. p2 exposed step to shoulder. Rap anchors (webbing) are on east shoulder.


Protection 

std rack webbing



Photos of West Gruesome Slideshow Add Photo
Me sitting on top of West Gruesome <br />August 2010 <br />Sam Smolnisky Photo
Me sitting on top of West Gruesome
August 2010
Sam...
Start in a sandy pit below a large corridor between the South face of South Tower and the North face of West Greusome.  <br /> <br />This corridor the climber is repelling down is the start for both of these summits. <br /> <br />West Gruesome starts in a chimney on your right side. This chimney is not very deep within this main corridor. <br /> <br />The chimney will turn into a flake system that can be seen in this picture. Pitch one ends when you reach a small, alcove before the south face.  <br /> <br />Pitch two is a small, exposed set of fine foot movements to a crack with a small tree in it. Move past the tree and finish out on some neat slab with a near sidewalk feature on it.  <br /> <br />It might be best to make two repels with one sixty meter rope. Repel from summit to a ledge in the corridor. The second repel to your original starting point can be made using webbing around a chalkstone.
Start in a sandy pit below a large corridor betwee...
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By David Raines
Jul 3, 2013

Very old school route. A lot of awkward moves up a flared chimney / fist crack / stemming problem. Maybe I was just inexperienced at those kind of moves when I did it back in 2009. Lots of respect for the Conn's.