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The Plunger
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Masters of the Mid 
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West Face 
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West Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Anderson & Rob Feeney 1999
Season: May - Aug
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
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Richard Shore on P2 of the West Face of The Plunge...
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


A short two-pitch route up the awesome Plunger pinnacle. The first ascent party severely overrated the crux pitch at 5.12a/b. From my experience (based on Indian Creek and Yosemite-style splitter cracks), this is no harder than about 5.11b.

Climb moderate snow and cross a bergschrund to access the base of the rock. Many possible starts are available, I will describe the obvious one we took.

P1) 5.6-5.7, ~80'. Up a low-angle left-facing dihedral to a belay in a notch from boulders with fixed rappel slings.

P2) 5.11, 50'. Scramble up and right through a notch from the belay, then up the slightly overhanging splitter #1 camalot sized crack (crux). Follow the crack as it bends right and narrows to fingers and the exposure increases dramatically. Belay from fixed slings at the top of the flake/crack, or continue another 10' up easy 5th class crack to the summit. Downclimb back to the sling anchor. This pitch could also be easily aided/French-freed at C1.


An obvious left-facing dihedral on the west face of the Plunger marks the first pitch. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed rappel slings.


Standard rack to 3". Two #1 camalot sized pieces are handy for the P2 crux. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed slings.

Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
The West Face 5.11 in red, the North Face 5.10a in green
The West Face 5.11 in red, the North Face 5.10a in...
Adrienne Kentner topping out on the West Face of The Plunger 5.11
Adrienne Kentner topping out on the West Face of T...
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