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The Plunger
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West Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dave Anderson & Rob Feeney 1999
Season: May - Aug
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013

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Richard Shore on P2 of the West Face of The Plunge...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

A short two-pitch route up the awesome Plunger pinnacle. The first ascent party severely overrated the crux pitch at 5.12a/b. From my experience (based on Indian Creek and Yosemite-style splitter cracks), this is no harder than about 5.11b.

Climb moderate snow and cross a bergschrund to access the base of the rock. Many possible starts are available, I will describe the obvious one we took.

P1) 5.6-5.7, ~80'. Up a low-angle left-facing dihedral to a belay in a notch from boulders with fixed rappel slings.

P2) 5.11, 50'. Scramble up and right through a notch from the belay, then up the slightly overhanging splitter #1 camalot sized crack (crux). Follow the crack as it bends right and narrows to fingers and the exposure increases dramatically. Belay from fixed slings at the top of the flake/crack, or continue another 10' up easy 5th class crack to the summit. Downclimb back to the sling anchor. This pitch could also be easily aided/French-freed at C1.

Location 

An obvious left-facing dihedral on the west face of the Plunger marks the first pitch. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed rappel slings.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3". Two #1 camalot sized pieces are handy for the P2 crux. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed slings.


Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The West Face 5.11 in red, the North Face 5.10a in...
The West Face 5.11 in red, the North Face 5.10a in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrienne Kentner topping out on the West Face of T...
Adrienne Kentner topping out on the West Face of T...

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