|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||1986 - Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich|
|Submitted By:||blakeherrington on Dec 20, 2008|
|Comments on West Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Darin Berdinka
May 1, 2009
This is the biggest 500' wall I've ever climbed. With a fair bit of dangling this route can be climbed at mid-5.10 C2ish. The start is not obvious, look for the V-shaped roof as show in the photo titled P1 above.
You can leave all your crap at the base of the climb. Then to descend, from below the summit blocks do two double rope rappels down the north ridge, then two more double rope rappels down the west face to reach the big ledge at the base of the route. Great anchors, clean rock, easy pulls. Just what you want after a long taxing day.
Apr 23, 2010
By Lance Colley
Aug 9, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
My girlfriend and I just climbed this route! What an amazing route in a super alpine location. If you want a real adventure, this is it. This route and range deserves much more attention so were hoping some notes on the route will get people back there;
To find the start of the route; you should notice an awesome access ledge starting on the lower left side of the wall and rising to the right across the face. Scramble up to the ledge on the left and traverse it right to where it almost peters out, look up and you will see the beautiful white granite face with cracks and black chicken heads(left of big white corner with tiny crack in it). The corner system of P3 and P4 is obvious above this. Also at the top of the wall a giant horn is obvious, sticking out from the wall, this feature seems to disappear as you get higher.
P1, we followed the line of least resistance aiming for the white face. This pitch begins with balancy climbing on knobs and some thin gear then good cracks to a decent stance. At the stance a horn on the right has some old tat on it but you can use nuts and medium cams for a more convenient belay. Almost exactly 30m (5.9+)
P2, climb thin and flaring cracks on slab, some stemming opportunities, small tricky gear, but enough to keep climbing, a 0.2 BD x4 placement was crucial for me. Traverse slab a few steps left and then up to best looking cracks in the bulge. Take a minute to soak up the exposure!! Good feet/rest out left just before crux. A key 0.75 BD cam pod protects the crux move. Knobs for feet and hands are crucial! Climb up through crux before next decent gear opportunity. So Pumpy! I belayed awkwardly just below a comfy ledge which had no gear:( This belay took some tiny cams/nuts and a #2 (5.11+)30m
P3, Its far from over. A cruxy boulder problem on knobs and flaring cracks (tricky gear) gets you off the ledge into more hard to protect flaring cracks. Finally an undercling move right on crazy orange and yellow rock gets you to an awesome steep hand crack. If you have a light rack, run it out to a huge chicken head. You can stand on the chicken head for a sorta comfy belay. Belay takes big cams. (5.10+ or 5.11-) 25m
P4 you are in the corner system now, keep going up it. This pitch is steep and burly, laybacking, stemming and offwidth moves. Most wide cracks can be protected with smaller gear. Finally an awkward mantle gets you on to a small slab with a finger crack above. We traversed right here to a great belay ledge just below the summit. (5.10+) 45m
P5 stem and tiptoe on loose and grainy rock following path of least resistance and mantle directly on to flat terrace just below true summit. (5.8) 20m
Access summit by heading right (south) on the terrace to an obvious chimney feature. Easy climbing gets you to the summit
Descent: With 1 60m rope, we made 1 rap and did some down climbing south from the summit to the nearest notch. At the notch we rapped west, twice off horns into the gully, the second rap we veered climbers right onto the west face of the Main/middle peak. We then down climbed 100 feet and rapped off another slung horn into a giant corner feature climbers right. There is a big ledge in the corner feature with a giant boulder that looks like a sinking ship, we slung this and rapped to a another convenient ledge just above the Chikimin glacier. Traverse this ledge climbers right to a big cave(good place to put on boots for the snow). A big boulder with tat around it is obvious, rap here to glacier, ninja moves and tarzan swinging with axe get you across moat to Chikimin. This last rap and most of the route is very exposed to rock fall, be fast! Overall this seems like a good alternative to traversing Middle peak/finishing the gunrunner traverse if you and tired and not stoked on leading more pitches of rock.