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Colchuck Balanced Rock
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West Face T 

West Face 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 9 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 7,842
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: This is looking up at the long hand crack and gian...


This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.

I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.

P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.

Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.


Gear to 3.5 inches

Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the "Enduro Corner" on CBR
Looking down the "Enduro Corner" on CBR
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...
Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9 crack and crux roof above.
5.9 crack and crux roof above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)
Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)
Rock Climbing Photo: Low on West Face
Low on West Face

Comments on West Face Add Comment
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By Sol Wertkin
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The fixed nut on the crux pitch is gone. Consensus seems to be about 11c for the crux.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Jan 13, 2012

Account of the 1st Winter Ascent here
By Mike dandy Patz
Jul 1, 2013

What is the season for this? Temps too hot in mid summer?
By blakeherrington
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Route gets sun only very late in the day. Hot days in mid summer are best. Long corner and roof traverse tend to seep in early season.
By MorganH
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

For normal sized humans, the "5.8" pitch is by far the crux. Mini-mountain crushers probably slither right up it.
By rohanbk
2 days ago
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Amazing route! The ledge below the Enduro corner roof has two fixed nuts with a bunch of suspect 'tat equalizing them. Furthermore, there is an additional fixed nut above the fist-sized portion of the crack on the corner.

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