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West Face T 

West Face 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 8,005
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: This is looking up at the long hand crack and gian...

Description 

This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.

I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.

P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.

Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Gear to 3.5 inches


Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: There is a pinch at the end of the roof (Pitch 5)....
BETA PHOTO: There is a pinch at the end of the roof (Pitch 5)....
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...
Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the belay at the top of the Pitc...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the belay at the top of the Pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)
Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)
Rock Climbing Photo: John at the balanced rock at the top, trying to fi...
BETA PHOTO: John at the balanced rock at the top, trying to fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9 crack and crux roof above.
5.9 crack and crux roof above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the "Enduro Corner" on CBR
Looking down the "Enduro Corner" on CBR
Rock Climbing Photo: John on the wild traverse beneath the roof (Pitch ...
BETA PHOTO: John on the wild traverse beneath the roof (Pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Low on West Face
Low on West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice stopper placement at the 11+/12- crux (Pitc...
BETA PHOTO: A nice stopper placement at the 11+/12- crux (Pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay West Face.
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay West Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the descent down and around the south...
BETA PHOTO: The start of the descent down and around the south...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the West Face of Colchuck Balanced Roc...
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the West Face of Colchuck Balanced Roc...
Rock Climbing Photo: The belay at the top of the Pitch 4 corner and und...
BETA PHOTO: The belay at the top of the Pitch 4 corner and und...
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up Pitch 1. 5.7 rock and tree climbing to g...
BETA PHOTO: Midway up Pitch 1. 5.7 rock and tree climbing to g...
Rock Climbing Photo: John starting off Pitch 5, which starts by followi...
BETA PHOTO: John starting off Pitch 5, which starts by followi...
Rock Climbing Photo: 10c thin hands splitter at the start of Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: 10c thin hands splitter at the start of Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack at the top of the roof (Pitch 5). It tak...
BETA PHOTO: The crack at the top of the roof (Pitch 5). It tak...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wide crack near the top of Pitch 2 along the left ...
BETA PHOTO: Wide crack near the top of Pitch 2 along the left ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the nice hand-crack of Pitch 6; th...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the nice hand-crack of Pitch 6; th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin slabby corner on Pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Thin slabby corner on Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: John entering the flaring chimney on Pitch 7. In h...
BETA PHOTO: John entering the flaring chimney on Pitch 7. In h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base of Pitch 4. To access the...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of Pitch 4. To access the...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of Pitch 7, move right about 40 feet ...
BETA PHOTO: From the top of Pitch 7, move right about 40 feet ...

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on West Face Add Comment
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By Sol Wertkin
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The fixed nut on the crux pitch is gone. Consensus seems to be about 11c for the crux.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Jan 13, 2012

Account of the 1st Winter Ascent here
By Mike dandy Patz
Jul 1, 2013

What is the season for this? Temps too hot in mid summer?
thanks!
By blakeherrington
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Route gets sun only very late in the day. Hot days in mid summer are best. Long corner and roof traverse tend to seep in early season.
By MorganH
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

For normal sized humans, the "5.8" pitch is by far the crux. Mini-mountain crushers probably slither right up it.
By rohanbk
Jul 25, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Amazing route! The ledge below the Enduro corner roof has two fixed nuts with a bunch of suspect 'tat equalizing them. Furthermore, there is an additional fixed nut above the fist-sized portion of the crack on the corner.

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