This area features a range of climbs from 5.3 to 5.10.
The trailhead is just below the start of the Devil's Slide hiking trail. Hike down a short hill to the creek and then follow the trail as it wraps around a hillside. After approx. .3 miles take a left trail climb that climbs the steep hillside above to the base of Tahquitz.
51 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in West Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face:
Featured Route For West Face
The Edge 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
: ... : West Face - Right Side
This route ascends the left edge/arete of the Open Book dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.The Turbo Flan...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for West Face
Latest Regional Forum Messages
There's a statute just like this in Brazil, overlo...
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview.
Fire in the sky, Tahquitz Rock
High above it all, Tahquitz Rock
Hanging out on the west face
Feb 23, 2006
I think the Description needs a bit more.
The West Face From the left side start with the Trought (5.4) and moves to the right and around to the Edge (5.11a). Most of the route lead to Lunch Ledge, then up to the top from there. Lunch Ledge is a ledge with a pine tree in it about 200 fett above Lunch Rock. The West Face has a number of moderate climbs on and is very popular.
The Descent is via the Friction Route (4th Class but is hard to find).
The approach is from the Climber trail to Lunch Rock. Go Left and up around Lunch rock to get to like the Trough, Dave's Deviation and Angel's Fright. Go Right and up to get to Human Fright and Finger Trip. Or continue around and right to get to climbs like El Camino Real, Coffin Nail, Jensen Jaunt, Traitor Horn and the Edge.
|By Sam Cannon|
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 13, 2014
As Dpurf mentioned the Friction Descent is hard to find...we had to google it (good thing my partner had 4g up at the summit) and we found this immensely helpful post on a forum regarding this very thing, copied and pasted here for your benefit:
"From the top of Fingertrip, walk up the slabs and blocky terrain for a few minutes until you see two garage-sized boulders with bushes and trees growing in between and around them off towards the right. Scramble up easy blocks between these two large boulders. As soon as you are between them, immediately go down and right, through some small trees to a short steep section. Down-climb this using chimney moves with giant handholds. From here, you zig-zag down the rock on ledges, with a few butt-slides. Generally trend left when facing out on your way down. Once you reach the ground, follow a loose trail down to the Open Book and hang a right towards your bags.
I highly recommend you buy a guidebook from Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild. It'll be worth the investment so you can be sure you're climbing the route you want."
---From user Ryan Strickland