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(g) West Face

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Lunch Rock 
West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab) 
West Face - Left Side 
West Face - Right Side 

(g) West Face Rock Climbing 


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Location: 33.76012, -116.6852 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49,086
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Stephanie on Feb 21, 2006
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Greg Huey rapping off the West Face

Description 

This area features a range of climbs from 5.3 to 5.10.

Getting There 

The trailhead is just below the start of the Devil's Slide hiking trail. Hike down a short hill to the creek and then follow the trail as it wraps around a hillside. After approx. .3 miles take a left trail climb that climbs the steep hillside above to the base of Tahquitz.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

54 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',8],['5.9',7],['5.10',14],['5.11',13],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (g) West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (g) West Face:
The Trough   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face - Left Side
Fingertip Traverse   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   West Face - Right Side
Jensen's Jaunt   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   West Face - Right Side
Angel's Fright   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face - Center (Flintst...
Fingertrip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face - Right Side
Piton Pooper   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   West Face - Left Side
Upper Royal's Arch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   West Face - Left Side
Traitor Horn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face - Right Side
Coffin Nail   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   West Face - Right Side
Dave's Deviation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   West Face - Left Side
Pearly Gate   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face - Right Side
The Blank   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face - Left Side
Human Fright   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   West Face - Center (Flintst...
El Camino Real   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   West Face - Right Side
Blankety Blank   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   West Face - Center (Flintst...
On the Road   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   West Face - Right Side
Fred   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   West Face - Center (Flintst...
Bedrock   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   West Face - Center (Flintst...
The Edge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   West Face - Right Side
The Hangover   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   West Face - Right Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (g) West Face

Featured Route For (g) West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: A good view of P.2. climb Solid on this one and ye...

Coffin Nail 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side
This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensen¬ís Jaunt....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of (g) West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tahquitz Rock overview, Idyllwild
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview, Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: Fire in the sky, Tahquitz Rock
Fire in the sky, Tahquitz Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out on the west face
Hanging out on the west face
Rock Climbing Photo: High above it all, Tahquitz Rock
High above it all, Tahquitz Rock

Comments on (g) West Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dpurf
From: Superior
Feb 23, 2006
I think the Description needs a bit more.

The West Face From the left side start with the Trought (5.4) and moves to the right and around to the Edge (5.11a). Most of the route lead to Lunch Ledge, then up to the top from there. Lunch Ledge is a ledge with a pine tree in it about 200 fett above Lunch Rock. The West Face has a number of moderate climbs on and is very popular.

The Descent is via the Friction Route (4th Class but is hard to find).

The approach is from the Climber trail to Lunch Rock. Go Left and up around Lunch rock to get to like the Trough, Dave's Deviation and Angel's Fright. Go Right and up to get to Human Fright and Finger Trip. Or continue around and right to get to climbs like El Camino Real, Coffin Nail, Jensen Jaunt, Traitor Horn and the Edge.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 13, 2014
As Dpurf mentioned the Friction Descent is hard to find...we had to google it (good thing my partner had 4g up at the summit) and we found this immensely helpful post on a forum regarding this very thing, copied and pasted here for your benefit:

"From the top of Fingertrip, walk up the slabs and blocky terrain for a few minutes until you see two garage-sized boulders with bushes and trees growing in between and around them off towards the right. Scramble up easy blocks between these two large boulders. As soon as you are between them, immediately go down and right, through some small trees to a short steep section. Down-climb this using chimney moves with giant handholds. From here, you zig-zag down the rock on ledges, with a few butt-slides. Generally trend left when facing out on your way down. Once you reach the ground, follow a loose trail down to the Open Book and hang a right towards your bags.

I highly recommend you buy a guidebook from Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild. It'll be worth the investment so you can be sure you're climbing the route you want."

---From user Ryan Strickland

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