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Routes in Castleton Tower
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Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Inside T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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No Other Options V1 5 |
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North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sacred Ground T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | westbay, green etc. |
| Page Views: | 6,426 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Oct 14, 2001 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010.
Details
Utah Open Lands utahopenlands.org owns the primitive area historically used by climbers camping near Castleton Tower.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org
Description
A wide crack tour de force. Would get 3 stars except for some loose rock. A good route for beating the heat and the crowds on Castleton.
Approach as for North face. From the ledge where NF starts, traverse right about 50' to the WF.
P1. 150' 5.9+ (stout). Up the crack system with lots of cups and some stemming. Carefully pass some loose blocks in an overhang, eventually ending up at a good stance. This pitch consumes a lot of gear. Belayer should be well sheltered for this pitch.
P2. 80' 5.8. Continue to a belay with modern bolts.
P3 100' 5.11-. Starts with a 5.9 squeeze chimney. You can place the #3 BigBro in the back of this but should probably backclean it to avoid ropedrag. Exit the chimney though a roof with hands. Some easier ground leads to the business, a 5" section which is well protected with a 4.5 Camalot. I found the hardest part of this section was an offwidth move at the start; after that, aggresive laybacking gets you quickly through to good hands. The line traverses right some to a five foot section of exposed hands which ends up on a ledge. There is an unnerving breadbox size loose block sitting on this ledge; if the coast is clear, you'd be doing a public service by cleaning this block. The route then goes back left, be careful to arrange your pro so that there is no danger of the rope prying the block off. After heading left, for a stretch of 5.9ish hands the route angles right again on easy, wide terrain to a belay at a stance in a left-facing corner.
P4 60' 5.10-. Head up a wide crack with some face holds and a couple of offwidth moves. Traverse left on somewhat friable rock (Tricams useful), then pullup onto the summit.
Approach as for North face. From the ledge where NF starts, traverse right about 50' to the WF.
P1. 150' 5.9+ (stout). Up the crack system with lots of cups and some stemming. Carefully pass some loose blocks in an overhang, eventually ending up at a good stance. This pitch consumes a lot of gear. Belayer should be well sheltered for this pitch.
P2. 80' 5.8. Continue to a belay with modern bolts.
P3 100' 5.11-. Starts with a 5.9 squeeze chimney. You can place the #3 BigBro in the back of this but should probably backclean it to avoid ropedrag. Exit the chimney though a roof with hands. Some easier ground leads to the business, a 5" section which is well protected with a 4.5 Camalot. I found the hardest part of this section was an offwidth move at the start; after that, aggresive laybacking gets you quickly through to good hands. The line traverses right some to a five foot section of exposed hands which ends up on a ledge. There is an unnerving breadbox size loose block sitting on this ledge; if the coast is clear, you'd be doing a public service by cleaning this block. The route then goes back left, be careful to arrange your pro so that there is no danger of the rope prying the block off. After heading left, for a stretch of 5.9ish hands the route angles right again on easy, wide terrain to a belay at a stance in a left-facing corner.
P4 60' 5.10-. Head up a wide crack with some face holds and a couple of offwidth moves. Traverse left on somewhat friable rock (Tricams useful), then pullup onto the summit.
Protection
To the best of my memory, we took the following:Single set up to .5 Friend, including nuts.Set of Tricams up to whiteDoubles 1 Friend to 2.5 Friend3 ea 3 & 3.5 Friend2 ea #4 Friend1 #4, #5 Camalot2 #4.5 Camalot1 #3 Big BroA few quckdraws and long slings.
Used everything, would have liked more in 3.5 Friend, 3 Camalot range. Didn't need 2 4.5 Camalots. Could have gotten by w/o the BigBro and the 5 Camalot.
Used everything, would have liked more in 3.5 Friend, 3 Camalot range. Didn't need 2 4.5 Camalots. Could have gotten by w/o the BigBro and the 5 Camalot.
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