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West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest 
A Bridge Too Far 
Astro Glide 
Avalon 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 
Bloodguard 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Fractal 
Harkness variation 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Scottfree 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

West Face 


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Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jul 19, 2002
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West Face of Devils Tower through the fisheye lens...
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Description 

These are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent.


Getting There 

Leave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area.


42 Total Routes


['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',13],['5.11',20],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face:
Fractal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Tulgey Wood   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Jerry's Kids   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
McCarthy West Face (Variant)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
One Way Sunset   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 440'   
El Matador   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Spank The Monkey   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Way Layed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Carol's Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
Mr. Clean   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
California Dreaming   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
McCarthy West Face/Hong   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Bloodguard   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
A Bridge Too Far   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Buster Cattlefield   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Deli Express   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 375'   
Digital Extraction   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Avalon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Brokedown Palace   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in West Face

Featured Route For West Face
Kevin Cooper on a glorious TR of Bloodguard, and Nate A at the belay below the crux pitch of Avalon.

Bloodguard 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a  WY : Devil's Tower : West Face
This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Devils Tower, dead tree, fisheye lens.
Devils Tower, dead tree, fisheye lens.
Devils Tower. West Face.
Devils Tower. West Face.
Devil's Tower from the left side of the West Face. An Imposing feature. Image By Tony Bubb, July 2001.
Devil's Tower from the left side of the West Face....
and another evening light photo
and another evening light photo
Taken June, 2000
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000
evening light on the W Face
evening light on the W Face
S side of the W Face
S side of the W Face
Campanula in the West Face rappels
Campanula in the West Face rappels
Comments on West Face Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006

In August of 1999 with his blessing I did a couple first ascents of routes that Dingus McGee had bolted but had not been able to climb. One of them is the bolt line up the arete just right of One Way Sunset. Dave Larsen, Dean Brault and I rated it 5.12 and called it Astro Glide. Has anyone else done this route? How hard did you think it was? I will add them to the list soon. The second is the bolted dihedral above Buckspeck. This one Dean Brault and I rated 5.12- and called it Team Ropin'. This one is on the north face as I recall. Same questions about this route.

By TomKingsbury
Nov 9, 2006

I have looked at both routes mentioned, but didn't try them due to the quality of the bolts. Team Ropin' looks rad, we rapped over it after doing the 'stepping out of flatland'(was going to t/r it, but ran outta time);('flatland' also crappy bolts). It would be a great community service to replace those bolts w/ good ones. (buckspeck, team ropin', steppin over, and astroglide all need new hardware, among others, second pitch of soler eclipse aswell) Permits are easy to get although w/ a hand drill the replacement might take forever. Was up there in august and october '06. 5.12 looks about right though.
(toms brother pat)