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Routes Sorted L to R R to L Alpha |
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000 DescriptionThese are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent. Getting ThereLeave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face:
Blotter is my Spotter 5.7 A4- Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade IV
Tulgey Wood 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Fractal 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
One Way Sunset 5.10c Trad, 4 pitches, 440 feet, Grade II
El Matador 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III
Spank The Monkey 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Mr. Clean 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet
Carol's Crack 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II
Livin' the Dream 5.11b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III
California Dreaming 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
McCarthy West Face/Hong 5.11c Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet
Bloodguard 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
A Bridge Too Far 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Digital Extraction 5.11d Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
Avalon 5.11d Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
Deli Express 5.11d Trad, 3 pitches, 375 feet, Grade II
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 5.12a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Brokedown Palace 5.12a Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 5.12c Trad, 80 feet
Featured Route For West Face
 An excellent route which will test all of your crack climing techniques. This route starts in a left facing dihederal on the south end of the west face just right of a tree and 2 cracks to the left of the 5.10 version of Mcarthy West Face. The first pitch (10a) is fun and continuous with thin fingers & liebacking up the corner to a belay on top of the column on the left. Pitch 2 heads up a short corner (10a)to another ledge. These pitches could probably be combined with a 60m rope. The third...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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