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These are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent.
Leave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area.
42 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in West Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face:
Fractal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Tulgey Wood 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Jerry's Kids 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
One Way Sunset 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 440'
El Matador 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Spank The Monkey 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Way Layed 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Carol's Crack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 320'
Mr. Clean 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
California Dreaming 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
McCarthy West Face/Hong 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Bloodguard 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
A Bridge Too Far 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Buster Cattlefield 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Deli Express 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 375'
Digital Extraction 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Avalon 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Brokedown Palace 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 4 pitches
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Trad, 80'
Featured Route For West Face
Bloodguard 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a WY : Devil's Tower : West Face
This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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