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These are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent.
Leave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area.
Weather station 0.5 miles from here
42 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in West Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Face:
Fractal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Tulgey Wood 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
El Matador 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 250'
Mr. Clean 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Bloodguard 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Deli Express 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 375'
Avalon 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Featured Route For West Face
Bloodguard 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a WY
: Devil's Tower
: West Face
This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006
In August of 1999 with his blessing I did a couple first ascents of routes that Dingus McGee had bolted but had not been able to climb. One of them is the bolt line up the arete just right of One Way Sunset. Dave Larsen, Dean Brault and I rated it 5.12 and called it Astro Glide. Has anyone else done this route? How hard did you think it was? I will add them to the list soon. The second is the bolted dihedral above Buckspeck. This one Dean Brault and I rated 5.12- and called it Team Ropin'. This one is on the north face as I recall. Same questions about this route.
Nov 9, 2006
I have looked at both routes mentioned, but didn't try them due to the quality of the bolts. Team Ropin' looks rad, we rapped over it after doing the 'stepping out of flatland'(was going to t/r it, but ran outta time);('flatland' also crappy bolts). It would be a great community service to replace those bolts w/ good ones. (buckspeck, team ropin', steppin over, and astroglide all need new hardware, among others, second pitch of soler eclipse aswell) Permits are easy to get although w/ a hand drill the replacement might take forever. Was up there in august and october '06. 5.12 looks about right though.
(toms brother pat)
By Will Buckman
From: Devils Tower
Aug 2, 2014
Just a heads up, the 2014 Falcon closure for the west face of Devils Tower is over. Come enjoy the shady side and some sweet cracks!
Thank you climbers for abiding by the closure and allowing a pair of nesting peregrine falcons to successfully fledge two chicks. Those chicks are becoming skilled aviators and are out eating pigeons daily.
There will be an official announcement sent out on Monday.