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 ADVANCED
West Face/ Southwest Arete

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Born of Water T,S 
Cloud Man Got Angry T,S 
Crystal Line T 
Forbes Route (East Approach) T 
Forbes Route (West Approach) T 
I'itoi Dance T 
Watcher of the Skies S 

West Face/ Southwest Arete  


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: epsilon on Nov 27, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Babo from the east. The SE arete route follows th...

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Description 

When approaching from the West side (Baboquivari Camp), there is an easy to follow pack trail to the Lion's Ledge. When I last went on Sept '01 there was a gauntlet of cat's claw and pointy branches on the trail, so long pants are recommended. Also recommended are a high clearance vehicle for the 12mi dirt road to the camp and trip scheduling on a cool day. On a hot day on hot rocks, 4L went easily. Leave extra gear near base of the Great Ramp. From there, the trail to the West side climbs and the Southwest arete goes through brush and descends shortly through a rock hole. In general, stay near the wall when following this trail on the Lion's Ledge. The trail ascends to a west-facing arete, then descends (past a bolted route next to a water stain near the base), then ascends to the SW arete. The arete base is wide and the start of the route is easy to pass unless you keep a eye out for the identifying landmarks (ridge of hills leading to the arete, dead pine tree and groove to right). A compass and topo map might help save time on a first trip.

West Face Area: Booty!! Mine, all mine! I found an aid-hook at the base of the West face in the vicinity of several relatively new bolted routes not mentioned in Kerry's Backcountry guide. First ascentionists can get the gear back in exchange for new route info posted to this site.

Overhead shot of the SW arete:hikearizona.com/trails/tucson/...

Death on the Lion's Ledge:isaac.exploratorium.edu/~pauld... Poor coati wasn't smelling too fresh a month after that photo was taken.

Getting There 

West approach: There is one clear trail to the Lion's ledge, and the trailhead is found near the end of Baboquivari Camp. The sign might have fallen, as it was on my last trip.


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.1 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face/ Southwest Arete:
Forbes Route (East Approach)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Forbes Route (West Approach)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
I'itoi Dance   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   
Cloud Man Got Angry   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Born of Water   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in West Face/ Southwest Arete

Featured Route For West Face/ Southwest Arete
Belaying at the top of the slab on pitch2.

Forbes Route (East Approach) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  AZ : Southern Arizona : ... : West Face/ Southwest Arete
This is the classic Forbes Route. The climb consists of three easy roped pitches with hiking in-between.From the saddle of Thomas Canyon, head southwest up to the prominent notch.Pitch 1: This pitch ascends the chimney with a chockstone. The pro is sparse, but the climbing is not difficult. There are two belay bolts at the top of this 40 foot pitch. From the top, hike along the rock wall on your left to the south about 100 yards to a nice west-facing slab.Pitch 2: Climb the slab directly followi...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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