West Face Right
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This is a fun sport route in a nice setting. It is a long runout of 5.8 to the first bolt, then intricate face climbing on cool crystals leads around the corner to crux moves going left along the roof. A good shakeout on big holds leads past one more tricky section. A moderate runout on pretty easy climbing leads to the anchor.
The Haas guidebook has this route graded as 5.12c. We didn't think it was nearly that hard, and I think it is probably 11d or 12a.
This is the right-most route on the West face of Hillbilly rock. Start up a nice looking slab to a high first bolt, then traverse left onto the steep face past a roof and three more bolts. After the 4th bolt, go back right to the arete, and finish on easier slab moves.
Bring some stoppers and small cams for the long run-out to the first bolt. 4 bolts protect the hard climbing very well.
The anchor is sub-standard and is comprised of two old quarter inch bolts. We backed it up with a double length sling over a small horn above the bolts. Bring a few leaver biners and cordalette or similar to equalize and back up the bolts.
By Adam Sanders
From: Erie, CO
Mar 10, 2014
There is all-new hardware on this and the adjacent 12c. A piece or two for the start and a stick clip for the other route are worth bringing up.