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Tiki Tower
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West Face of Tiki Tower T 

West Face of Tiki Tower 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Autumn, 1991 by Doug Fuller, Peter Lenz
Season: Spring or Fall are best
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: PeterSLenz on May 7, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The route starts in the crack/chimney, and moves o...

Description 

This "tower," is really just a large boulder, but the route is fun.
Climb chimney (5.6 a bit loose) to bolted face (solid). Rappel from chains on summit.

There are 3 other (top rope) routes; they are on the other faces.
You can discover them for yourself. I suggest no further bolting (other than to replace or add bolts as needed on the West face route) on this formation, given the small size of the tower, and the fact that the other routes can be easily tope roped from the existing anchors.

Location 

3.5 miles down Buckhorn wash, look to the West. Tiki Tower looks like a brown banana in the floor of the basin. West Face of Tiki Tower. Start in obvious chimney/crack. Move onto bolted face halfway up. Rappel from chains on summit.

Protection 

Small standard rack and draws


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This thing is a lot of fun, feels more like a small tower than a boulder for sure, and is not a giveaway at the grade. Nice job, and really worth doing on your way back to SLC if you've got some time after climbing in Buckhorn.