|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Karl Kiser on Dec 10, 2012|
|Comments on West Face of Lambda||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 10, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Approach: Turn off the regular trail to Lambda Wall above the large tree and traverse left on easy but featured ground with generally friendly vegetation (see photo for details).
Pitch 1: 120 ft, 5.7+. Go up the large dihedral - very easy at first, sustained and interesting climbing later, one piton. Note a large loose-looking rock below a yellow-green decorated roof. Go left of the rock and exit the dihedral to the right immediately after using the widest crack for hands. Traverse right on easy ground to the next left-facing corner. Going up to the small tree gets chossy for a few feet just below the tree, or you can go through the yucca to the left.
Pitch 2: 110 ft, 5.7. From the tree go up and slightly left on a somewhat slabby terrain with smaller holds and few small pro placements (this is the crux section, it goes down to 5.6 or less after that). Traverse left on an easy almost-ledge to a comphy ledge just right of a dead tree with a tat on it. (With a small live tree below.) Go up and right past a tiny bush. Continue right past a piton, then up a steep but easy corner on jugs, and pop up onto a slab. Belay from below the head wall.
Pitch 3: 100 ft, 5.6. Head left at the top of the slab past another piton, or two if you count the one in the wall. Continue traversing left under the house-size block - The Oven. Once past it, go straight up on good holds keeping the rope out of the crack at the corner of The Oven. Belay from the top of the Oven.
Pitch 4: 90 ft, 5.7+. Continue up an unfortunately dirty but super-easy gully to the overhangs above. Go up the right-leaning, right-facing corner made of a couple of distinct steps. Its a bit thin at the start, but the underclings and laybacks after that are solid. Once you clear the second one, continue up and to the left through a narrow squeeze. Stay left on easy slab to the top-out, which is on the walk-off from Yellow Brick Road.