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Fourth Sella Tower
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West Face, Glueck Route. T 

West Face, Glueck Route. 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 850', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: F. Glueck, et. al. 1929
Season: Summer and Autumn
Page Views: 14
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Jun 6, 2013

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The route is less frequently climbed than others in the Sella Towers due to a somewhat lower rock quality. The climbing has been rated as mostly 5.5-5.6 with occasional spots of 5.7 or 5.7+ depending on the exact line followed. Begin by climbing directly towards a yellow overhang that lies on the right side of the face, and traversing to the left below it. There are numerous fixed pitons and many "hourglasses" for threads. The belay stations are mostly equipped with several pitons. The 4th and 5th leads have the most difficult climbing.


The actual start of climbing is below a prominent yellow overhang some 80-100 feet off the deck.

Descend by downclimbing into the notch between the tower to a cemented-in piton for a series of 9 abseils back to the talus.


Normal alpine rack with extra runners and QDs.

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