West Face AKA Cold Feelings
||Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Claire Carren & George Brasieck, 7/22/77, pitch 1: John Auld, EVD, 2009, pitch 2/3: Todd Bol, EVD, 2011?|
|Page Views: ||508|
|Submitted By: ||tbol on Aug 7, 2011|
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BETA PHOTO: West Face.
This route is one of only two on the West face. Dan Hare confirmed that (from Gillett's book there was some speculation) the upper corner has been climbed at 5.10+
P1: 5.6, head straight up cracks and jugs for 60 feet to fixed pro. It is surprisingly exposed.
P2: 5.6, head straight up the same crack system with a little laybacking. Step onto the slab and follow a thinnish crack directly through a small bulge staying left of a prominent tree. Then gain a ledge with fixed pro. 80 feet.
P3: 5.7, head left from the belay to gain the prominent crack system. Follow this until it begins to arc right and peters out. Here, step left and gain another thin crack below a small tree. Follow this crack to a ledge below the upper most headwall and take a broken, right-facing corner to the top. Now you are on the summit of The Watchtower. Walk off to the east. You may have Cold Feelings on this route if 5.7 is your limit. 130 feet.
This is the furthest right climb on the wall.
Take RPs and small cams and maybe doubles up to #1 Camalot.
George Bracksieck is visible just above a tree in ...
By George Bracksieck
Jun 29, 2012
On 7/22/77, I led Claire Carren up the rounded buttress pictured above. At times, we might have been more to the left of the pictured line, but that's hard to say without looking closely at the rock again, not that it's important. In any case, our finish was the same as the pictured line. I wrote down 5.7 for a rating. Used only wedges, hexes, and slings. A tourist sent me a poor-quality print of us on the climb. Maybe I can find it.
Aug 23, 2012
George, thanks for the beta. We figured someone had to have climbed this side of the crag at some point. You could wander all over the face doing many variations, all about 5.7 I think. Pretty fun! Post that picture if you can find it.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Jul 7, 2014
Climbed this today lured in by the moderate appearance of the first pitch. Combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m. Stepped up and right rather than traversing left from belay bolt atop pitch two following a series of flakes to just below the mini roof visible in beta photo directly above marked bolt. We stepped left around roof. Airy and exposed with good gear after most of the unnerving high-steps. Maintains 5.7R rating.