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West Face - Right Side
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acrobat, The 
Angle Iron Traverse 
Coffin Nail 
Crimes of Passion 
Dos Equis 
Edge, The 
El Camino Real 
Fingergrip 
Fingertip Traverse 
Fingertrip 
Hangover, The 
Jensen's Jaunt 
Last Judgment 
On the Road 
Pearly Gate 
Pigs in Bondage 
Shit for Brains 
Slab, The 
Toe Tip 
Traitor Horn 
Unknown? 

West Face - Right Side 


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2008

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: El Camino Real, Dos Equis, Pigs in Bondage topo

Description 

This area encompasses routes from The Slab (5.8) around and right all the way to The Edge (5.11a R).

This portion of Tahquitz is quite popular with a variety of climbs from one to four pitches in length and a good mix of cracks and faces. Popular routes here include Fingertip Traverse (5.3), Fingertrip (5.7), Coffin Nail (5.7+), Traitor Horn (5.8), El Camino Real (5.10a), On the Road (5.10c) and The Edge (5.11a R).


Getting There 

Head right from Lunch Rock to reach this area. See the individual route descriptions for more detailed approach information.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face - Right Side:
Fingertip Traverse   5.3     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   
Jensen's Jaunt   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   
Angle Iron Traverse   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Fingertrip   5.7     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Coffin Nail   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Traitor Horn   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Fingergrip   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
The Slab   5.8 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   
Pearly Gate   5.9+     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
El Camino Real   5.10a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   
Pigs in Bondage   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet   
On the Road   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Unknown?   5.10+     Trad   
The Edge   5.11a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Dos Equis   5.11a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Last Judgment   5.11a/b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Acrobat   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
The Hangover   5.13a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in West Face - Right Side

Featured Route For West Face - Right Side
On Edge.

The Edge 5.11a R  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side
This route ascends the left edge/arete of the Open Book dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.The Turbo Flan...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of West Face - Right Side Slideshow Add Photo
Routes in the Jensen's Jaunt Area.

Routes in the Jensen's Jaunt Area.

Noelle Ladd on Coffin Nail stopping to shoot a few photos of Nathan Fitzhugh and Agina Sedler on Trader Horn.

Noelle Ladd on Coffin Nail stopping to shoot a few...