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West Elden

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West Elden  


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Location: 35.2542, -111.6235 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 21, 2006
Forecast:
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Bouldering at West Elden in the old days: Jim Doni...

Description 

The West Elden climbing area is made up of a 80' tall Dacite cliff which hosts a large number of traditional routes. This climbing expanse houses excellent crack, slab and face climbs of all grades. West Elden has morning shade and afternoon sun. The crag also sits at about 7000' making it a great summertime get away. It is climbable in the fall and spring, but don't' count on it as weather in Flagstaff is difficult to predict.

In his excellent and comprehensive book, A Cheap Way to Fly, Tim Toula breaks West Elden into Uptown, which is north of the fence, and Downtown, which is south of the fence. To aid in the use of his guide I have kept the same labels here.

Getting There 

Drive north out of Flagstaff on Highway 180 for about three miles. After passing the Museum of Northern Arizona (which is on the left) look for a right hand turn on to Shultz Pass Road. Take this turn and drive about 1/4 mile to a fork in the road. The left fork continues on Shultz Pass Road while the right is Mount Elden Lookout Road. Take the right fork and drive about three and a half miles to the parking area. Approximately two miles of this drive is on pavement and one and a half miles on a well maintained dirt road. The parking for West Elden is in two pullouts on the right hand side of the road. There is a small kiosk at the first pullout.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.9 miles from here

39 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Elden:
Slab Problem   V4- 6B     Boulder, 13'   Uptown
Five Easy Pieces   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Uptown
Baxter Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 60'   Uptown
Right Deception Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Uptown
Zit Slab   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Uptown
Cracktus   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   Downtown
TT's Terror   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Uptown
Doug Scott Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Downtown
Left Deception   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Uptown
Flameout   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Downtown
The Prow   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Uptown
Megadeath   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Uptown
Middle Deception Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Uptown
La Diosa    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Downtown
Gone Fishin'   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Uptown
Watermelon   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Downtown
Twilight Zone   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Downtown
Bold is Love   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Uptown
John's Jugs   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 65'   Uptown
Browse More Classics in West Elden

Featured Route For West Elden
Steve Grossman cruises out from under the initial roof on the second free ascent of the Twilight Zone.

Twilight Zone 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Downtown
The Twilight Zone crack sits in a small alcove about 100 yards south of the barb wire fence. Climb a moderate slab with small gear to the back of the alcove. From here powerful face climbing leads to nice hand and fist jams up the steep crack. The moves out of the alcove are difficult to protect.This route stays dry in a light rain.Rappel from a tree or take the walk down 100' to the climber's right....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for West Elden
Photos of West Elden Slideshow Add Photo
Hepcat cruises Bold is Love, a new route at West Elden put up on the lead in April, 2008.
Hepcat cruises Bold is Love, a new route at West E...

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