2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Start up the dihedral with good stemming, hands, and fists. Pull up onto slightly less steep terrain, make an awkward step and reach, and finish as for Northwest Corner. The crux is somewhere in the first 20 feet.
Watch out for some loose blocks and flakes before you pull. Would give it another star but the steep dihedral section is just a little short.
Another option for finishing is to turn the large roof to the right of where one would normally step left to finish Northwest Corner. There is plenty of good pro and looks like fun. Tried to turn it but it quickly spit me off with a vengeance. Just a guess because I didn't send it but maybe 11ish? Hands were good, but feet were tough.
This can be found on the west side of Cob Rock by hiking up the walk-off trail past the now bolted Brownies in the Basin a little further around the corner. It's the large, wide dihedral and is tough to miss. I recommend belaying on the large ledge directly at the base of the dihedral. Gain the ledge with an easy scramble.
Use the standard walk-off.
Real light rack. A couple of two inch pieces and one three inch gets one up the wide dihedral. A couple stoppers and mid-range cams is plenty for the rest. There are two fixed pins under the roof of the Northwest Corner finish.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 1, 2013 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This is a fantastic route! Looking up at the dihedral it looks overhanging and way hard. When you get up in it, you find there is much more to it than can be seen from the ground. Fun, fun!
By M Bageant Jul 1, 2014 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
I found the Boulder Canyon guidebook's sparse beta to be a little unhelpful. This route is the big, orange, semi-overhanging corner that starts from a big ledge (you could park a Volkswagon there) above the descent path. About 15-20' of 5.3ish climbing is required to gain the ledge; recommended that you either solo this part to prevent rope drag or have your belayer join you on the ledge.
Climb the big, orange corner toward the left side of the roof (fun!); look out to your left, and when you see a flat-topped pillar (shortly before climbing into the roof), you can traverse left about 10 feet (stepping over a void on good foot ledges) and belay from that pillar to end a first pitch (there is a fixed pin there). If you climb too high and miss the pillar, you might as well just keep going and link the two pitches indicated by the guidebook---the little left side of the roof looks intimidating but definitely goes at a very reasonable 5.8, and the second pitch is very short.