2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Start to the right of the bolted Brownies in the Basin, and go up a somewhat hard to protect (only the first 15 or so feet) crack and continue up for another 50-ish feet aiming for the slight roof/bulge with several vertical cracks in it. When you get there step left, plug a two inch piece and enjoy a few perfect hand and fist jams (5.9 I think) that leads up to the pillar and belay point for Northwest Corner. Belay here or keep cruising to the top with the NW Corner finish.
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Aug 11, 2007 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
An excellent alternative is to stick to the fist crack that wraps around to the right and then up. This gets you behind this small buttress eventually and at the start of West Dihedral. This crack is more of a big flake at one point and kind of spits you out to the right with bad feet for a 5.9ish move. Plug a good cam and commit to the jams and you get above to good holds. Keep on up and end up on a large ledge below the roof with a bolted route on the right. Either add a pitch up the offwidth dihedral to the left and join Northwest Corner or traverse on easy ground at the ledge level and walk off. Place gear on the traverse or not.
I started in a crack almost directly below the roof (a touch to the right) and followed a mostly direct line through the roof to the top of the formation in 1 long pitch. Done this way I think it is one of the better 5.9 pitches in Boulder Canyon.