West Country 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Summers and John Fisher, July 1969 |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006 |
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Megan leading pitch 2
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Description P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.
P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.
P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.
Location See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome
Protection standard full rack.
Tamara on p2...seemed a little sustained/stiff for...
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Following P2 of West Country
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Looking up at the P2 corner
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John at the P3 anchor. P4 is the fun lie backing t...
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Pitch 3
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Lisa Pritchett leading West Country 5.7
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Running it out on Pitch 3 of West Country
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By Reedster
From: SLC, UT
Jul 3, 2007
| I just did this route. It is an excellent first Tuolumne lead for an intermediate climber with limited multi-pitch lead experience. Truly what earns this climb three stars is the sustained nature of the lieback. It may sound silly to say about a 5.7. lieback... but it doesn't let up. I might subtract 1/2 of a star from the 3 simply because the crux pitch is not a full rope length. Don't miss this one unless the lineup looks like a zoo. |
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.7 PG13
| A good line, but I found it to be much less fun than say "South Crack" or "The Boltway". More awkward.
Second pitch corner is sustained and can be hard to see your pro as you place it.
Third pitch is a bit runout - my smallest cam did not fit in the tiny crack near the end.
Fourth pitch is pretty straighforward. |
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.7
| Slipery on the lieback |
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 8, 2010
rating: 5.7 PG13
| super fun, excellent "intro to Tuolumne" route, you can belay right out of your car if you want to! lieback is fun, slotting nuts in blindly every 10 feet, and pitch 3 has fun 20+ foot runouts on easy granite slab, don't miss it. |
By Carquinez
May 25, 2010
| Great route. The lieback can be a surpise if you are expecting easy 5.7. Because the lieback is so worn and slick from traffic, I believe the rating has been upped to 5.8.
JV |
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jun 29, 2010
| The friction is still pretty awesome in that corner, you could slab climb next to it if you wanted- the only time it's 5.8 is the middle of a blazing hot day when you're sweating through your shoe rubber. |
By trying hard
From: East side Sierra
Aug 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 PG13
| One of the best spots to climb in the meadows. Right above Tenaya lake and you get a great view of half dome at the top. Girlfriend loved it, good one to take the lady on to get warmed up to T Meadows climbing. |
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13
| P1 and 2 are the money pitches. Gets kinda slabby after that, but still fun. |
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Aug 1, 2011
| Great route, wife was NOT a fan of the descent. And she climbs in JTree all the time so isnt exactly new to "sketch-town" (her words) descents.
We had a blast climbing, and in no rush in the morning and still arrived on scene first. |
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