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The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
Duck a L'Orange T 
East Buttress of the South Peak T 
Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
Standard Route T 
Totally Spurious T 
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West Buttress of the South Peak T 
West Couloir T 
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West Couloir 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Mod. Snow [details]
FA: Jack Bryceland and BCMC party, June 1982
Season: winter-spring
Page Views: 10
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 18, 2009

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Description 

This route climbs the deep couloir immediately left of the West Buttress of the South Peak. Snow completely melts out of this couloir by early-mid July. On the first ascent, crevasses completely spanned the couloir and some had to be bypassed by adjacent rock; earlier in the season, the couloir offers continuous snow to 45 degrees.

Location 

Immediately left (north) of the West Buttress of the South Peak.

Descend via the same route if conditions permit or via the south ridge.

Protection 

Ice axe, crampons, possibly some rock pro.


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