Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Start at the deep chimney about 10' right of Great Zot. Climb the chimney, passing some fixed pins and an intermediate bolted rappel station, to a belay at a tree just below the Red Ledge (160 ft) or a tree at the base of Swanson Arete on the Red Ledge (205ft).
The upper pitches continue up the chimney/gully to the notch north of Lumpe Tower, but these are seldom climbed. If you do go to the top, descend back to Red Ledge by rappelling from trees; be careful of loose rock.
The first pitch of this route is commonly used to descend from the Red Ledge. There is a two-bolt anchor on the left wall of the chimney just below the Red Ledge (about 130' up), and a second two-bolt anchor about 70' up. Two rappels with a 50m or 60m rope get you down. It's possible to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope with a little bit of downclimbing at the end.
It's best to avoid climbing this route when parties are rappelling, unless you want to get brained by a tossed rope.
Agree w/ Ron in the route description. There is a variety of climbing offered on this (first long) pitch providing good practice in shifting balance as you stem. The finish chimney section (best part of the first pitch) offers a large nut placement then to a friendly foot ledge & fun chimney to bolts. I would offer that this is a hard technical mountaineering-type pitch. It is quite fun but generally underrated in relation of being a good climb because of its neighbors.
Difficult to climb this with a pack or camelback, this (first) pitch is fairly cleaned of loose rock, but be mindful that a rock will fall on everyone staging for the other climbs (& also where your belayer is standing). I generally get an early start to try and avoid any mishaps when climbing this feature.
A much better pitch than it's generally given credit for. As noted, more like a technical mountaineering pitch, and there's some real-by-god chimney climbing at the top that's thoughtful and fun. Also as noted, the gear is not plentiful, but I've never felt too badly run out. I think Rossiter's guide gives this a 5.5, but maybe a bit harder.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Jul 24, 2008 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
I actually thought this was a fun chimney. I lead it today as the first pitch of Swanson's Arete and I would say is was no harder than the rest of the route which goes at 5.5. There is some loose rock, but not too much and it does take pro well (there are also two solid looking pitons along the way and 2 sets of bolts for rappels along with plenty of cracks).
That being said I only gave it one star because of the risk factor. DO NOT climb this route if anyone is rappelling from above. The chimney continues all the way to the top and doubles as the rappel route to get off the top (as an alternative to the walk down). There was no one below us or in the vicinity so we rapped down. On the second rap, pulling the ropes dislodges one of the many loose rocks in the upper chimney and it went crashing all the way down. I was trying to be really careful and there was no one below us, but seeing the rock shatter in after dropping 50 feet into the chimney made me decide never to climb that route if there was any chance of anyone rappelling above.
I climbed this as the "approach" to Swanson's arête and found it a good way to approach at a grade similar to that of Swanson's. Good climbing, good enough pro and a fun but too short section of chimneying. Leading it with a pack isn't too bad as you can just clip it to your harness for the 5 feet of chimneying. I made it all the way to the Red Ledge right below Swanson's Arête in one pitch with double 60m ropes. I think my belayer climbed up a few feet to accomodate this....
I can see why people are calling it 5.5. I feel like it might be an unsustained 5.6, but you can decide for yourself.
I gave it two stars as it is not sustained and there is minimal actual chimneying on it.