West Chimney  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet FA:  ? Submitted By:  Jim McGuire on Jan 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

P1 L start, 5.7.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a nice route if you like chimney climbing, if not best to keep your distance.

This climb starts from the big ledge left of Wolfstooth but right of the big rotten cleft bisecting the face. There are three options for starting which converge below the obvious chimney. The hand crack on the left is the nicest(5.7), and the low angle, left angling chimney/crack in the center is the easiest. One can continue the first pitch on up into the chimney but to help communication a belay here may be advisable. Climb up the steep, classic "boot&butt" chimney past a chockstone to a deep, flat-bottomed cave. Belay in the cave or on a ledge above on some boulders. The last lead starts out in a right facing corner and exits early to the face on the right for the easiest passage.

Unlike the Bowels of the Owls, this chimney is quite strenuous and exposed.

Protection 

Standard rack.

Photos of West Chimney Slideshow

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P2 below the crux chockstone.