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P1 L start, 5.7.
This is a nice route if you like chimney climbing, if not best to keep your distance.
This climb starts from the big ledge left of Wolfstooth but right of the big rotten cleft bisecting the face. There are three options for starting which converge below the obvious chimney. The hand crack on the left is the nicest(5.7), and the low angle, left angling chimney/crack in the center is the easiest. One can continue the first pitch on up into the chimney but to help communication a belay here may be advisable. Climb up the steep, classic "boot&butt" chimney past a chockstone to a deep, flat-bottomed cave. Belay in the cave or on a ledge above on some boulders. The last lead starts out in a right facing corner and exits early to the face on the right for the easiest passage.
Unlike the Bowels of the Owls, this chimney is quite strenuous and exposed.
P2 below the crux chockstone.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 4, 2004
Beware of rope drag on your last piece below the chockstone on P2.