Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Musembeah Peak
Select Route:
West Buttress T 

West Buttress 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Layton Kor, 1963
Season: summer
Page Views: 4,613
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Jun 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Musembeah from Mt. Lander, showing West Buttress.

Description 

This is the best line in the central Winds, especially if parties keep to the crest of the upper arete. It's character is that of a mountaineering rock climb, with route finding issues, sometimes unpredictably wet patches, but still, generally enjoyable climbing on good rock. The final pitches provide withering exposure and wonderful movement up sustained cracks and chimneys. Ledges are timely and comfortable.
The first ascent climbed the shady rock left of the crest to finish, slightly easier but worthy rock. The shade is generally unappealing.
Start up the chimney/couloir mentioned in "Location", and trend left after a pitch, continuing up the lower half of the buttress (occasional 5.8) following cracks to the laid back central section.
Scramble to the base of the upper arete, then continue upwards, on or a little right of the crest to the the summit. 5.9-5.10, 4 or 5 pitches.



Location 

The west face is a complex wall above Baptiste Lake and is separated into two distinct buttresses separated at the bottom by a chimney/couloir. The West Buttress route ascends the left one.

Protection 

A standard rack with cams to 3" and runners should do the job.


Photos of West Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper ridge of W. Butt
Upper ridge of W. Butt
Rock Climbing Photo: High on the west ridge of Musembeah, 1986
High on the west ridge of Musembeah, 1986
Rock Climbing Photo: Musembeah from Baptiste Lake, showing the lower we...
Musembeah from Baptiste Lake, showing the lower we...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Draper at the beginning of the upper arete.
Eric Draper at the beginning of the upper arete.

Comments on West Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!