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 ADVANCED
Mt. McKinley
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Cassin Ridge 
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South Buttress_Wyoming Rib Variation T 
West Buttress 
West Rib, The 

West Buttress 

Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, 12500'
FA: 1951 Brad Washburn
Season: Late April - Late June
Page Views: 8,770
Submitted By: R Squared on Apr 29, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The West Buttress

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

The West Buttress is often considered the handicap ramp to the top of Denali. It is the easiest route to the top but it can still kill you very quickly. The route has around 12,500 ft. of elevation gain. Weather can change in a heartbeat so come prepared for anything.

Location 

The route starts at 7,200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier and climbs all the way to 20,320 feet. 14 miles long so come in shape and prepared.

Protection 

There are fixed lines on the route so bring jumars. Ice axe, good winter tent, stove, fuel, food, motivation, patience, the proper clothing.


Photos of West Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
On Denali's West Buttress 6/11/2007.  Photo: Joel ...
On Denali's West Buttress 6/11/2007. Photo: Joel ...
Well....  is that it??
Well.... is that it??
Summit Ridge
Summit Ridge
Looking up at the summit from our food cache just ...
Looking up at the summit from our food cache just ...
Day 1 of your trip, on the ground at Kahiltna Base...
Day 1 of your trip, on the ground at Kahiltna Base...
Headed down Hearbreak Hill from Base Camp beside t...
Headed down Hearbreak Hill from Base Camp beside t...
Advanced Base Camp, 6,800 feet, and the view up th...
Advanced Base Camp, 6,800 feet, and the view up th...
A day at 14K.
A day at 14K.
Advanced Base Camp, 6,800 feet.  Stop gawking at D...
BETA PHOTO: Advanced Base Camp, 6,800 feet. Stop gawking at D...
A common sight on the West Butt route.  A line of ...
BETA PHOTO: A common sight on the West Butt route. A line of ...
Looking back down the Kahiltna Glacier from the to...
Looking back down the Kahiltna Glacier from the to...
Siege the Day. Leaving 14,000 camp for 17,000 camp...
Siege the Day. Leaving 14,000 camp for 17,000 camp...
cribbage...lots and lots of cribbage
cribbage...lots and lots of cribbage
please email denaliresearchproject@gmail.com for m...
BETA PHOTO: please email denaliresearchproject@gmail.com for m...
The West Buttress Camp at 11,300 feet.  On this da...
The West Buttress Camp at 11,300 feet. On this da...
Motorcycle Hill, above the 11,300 foot camp.  The ...
BETA PHOTO: Motorcycle Hill, above the 11,300 foot camp. The ...
Evan...
Evan...
Looking down at the 11,300 foot camp from the top ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the 11,300 foot camp from the top ...
Denali Pass from 17K.
Denali Pass from 17K.
If the climb to this point at the top of Motorcycl...
BETA PHOTO: If the climb to this point at the top of Motorcycl...
ABC in the Genet Basin. Messner Coular in the back...
ABC in the Genet Basin. Messner Coular in the back...
The view down valley from the top of Kahiltna Glac...
The view down valley from the top of Kahiltna Glac...
Looking down the route from Windy Corner toward Sq...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the route from Windy Corner toward Sq...
The Belly of the Beast: The west face of Denali, v...
BETA PHOTO: The Belly of the Beast: The west face of Denali, v...

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Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on West Buttress Add Comment
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By mlloyd
From: denver
Nov 29, 2011

I'm looking for a partner to climb denali via the west buttress in june 2012. Email me if your into it...