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West Bluff - West Rampart

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Beast, The 
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Tyrolean Tower 

West Bluff - West Rampart 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 25, 2002
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Looking north towards Baraboo, sunrise, September ...

Description 

Similar in appearance and size to its counterpart on the East Bluff (The East Rampart area), the West Rampart area is the obvious cliff band along the top of the West Bluff. The area contains the longest climbs on the West Bluff (Lost Face), and is much less crowded than other spots in spite of the quality routes found here. Formations included in the area are Prospect Point, Big Toe, Great Chimney, Lost Face, Reclining Tower, Dead Tree Wall, and Cave Rocks.


Getting There 

To access the West Rampart, hike along the West Bluff trail starting from either the north or south end of the West Bluff. The West Bluff Trail skirts the top of the West Rampart cliff. Another access route is to park on the South Shore Road north of Ski Hi Rd. There is a gravel ranger's road that is easily hiked. Hike along this road east toward the rim of the West Bluff. You will hit the junction with the West Bluff Trail just above Lost Face and Great Chimney.


96 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',15],['5.8',15],['5.9',10],['5.10',12],['5.11',10],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Bluff - West Rampart:
Lost Face   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR   Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area
Sharks Tooth   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   Sharks Tooth
Stuck Knee   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney
Lost Face Finger Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area
Dead Tree Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Dead Tree Wall
Noah Vail   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area
The Bastard Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Cracker Jack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Lost Face Overhangs I & II   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area
Grand Illusion   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney
Tardis   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Dead Tree Wall
Whipping Boy   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Ibex   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area
Wild West Homo   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Coup d'Etat   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, TR   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Son Of Great Chimney   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Pale Rider   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R     Trad, 40'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Son of Great Chimney Direct   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Match the Snatch   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Browse More Classics in West Bluff - West Rampart

Featured Route For West Bluff - West Rampart
The route Grand Illusion with the lower 5.10b variation start shown.  It climbs up a crack not quit visible in the shadows lower right and scums over and past a point via a 5.10b mantle type move.  The upper crack and steep crux of Grand Illusion can be seen upper left in the photo as well but somewhat ill defined in this photo due to the angle of the shot and small shadows.

Grand Illusion 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Big Toe to Great Chimney
In Swartling's guide the route is shown as starting of ledge DD at Prospect Point Rampart.This is true but a better and more fun option is to climb the route from the ground via the 5.10b variation start that is a goody in itself (although can be wet and gooey right at the base).The upper Grand Illusion part of the route proper is a gem too. Very nice crack up into a overhanging crack/groove. Well protected and classic stiff 5.9. The crux here is pulling through the overhanging crack via lock...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of West Bluff - West Rampart Slideshow Add Photo
Wet September day at the West Bluff.
Wet September day at the West Bluff.
Sunrise on the West Bluff.  September 09.
Sunrise on the West Bluff. September 09.
Part of the rampart. The Good, the bad, and the Jacked climbs the black streak behind skinny tree on the left.  The second part of Cracker Jack can be seen in the middle.  And Wild West Homo is the face on the Far right.  This is looking at it from the top of Son of Great Chimney.
Part of the rampart. The Good, the bad, and the Ja...
The West Rampart.  See the hiker on top in the middle?
BETA PHOTO: The West Rampart. See the hiker on top in the mid...
Spring has returned.  Dutchmans Breeches.
Spring has returned. Dutchmans Breeches.
West Rampart
West Rampart
Comments on West Bluff - West Rampart Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Mar 10, 2012

Could this be separated into "South", "Middle", and "North" please?