We're Not in Kansas Anymore
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Lots of very important footwork on this route. You gotta have your sequence nailed. Its a tricky one to figure out.
xxx Beware xxx Onsight Spoiling Beta:
Start on large foothold ledges with extremely thin hands. I mean THIN crimps, but the feet are so good that it is not too bad. Dance your way up a few moves to some sidepulls so that you are like a human pair of locking pliers. Crank hard with technical foot work to gain the 2nd clip. Then a tricky move right yields to you the hold that you want. Work your way up this sidepull system to a nice slot on the left by the 3rd bolt and get ready to sustain pump non-obvious moves to the 4th bolt. Then you are golden with 5.9/10 moves to the top.
Between the 2 12a's on the main munchkin wall. 6th route from the left after the 2 easy(5.4, 5.5) routes in the Towers area. It starts on the large, (3 inch deep, 10 inch long) foothold about 2 ft off the ground.
7 bolts + chain/anchor up top
By Toby Wehler
From: Chicago, IL
Mar 31, 2013
This route looked pretty sweet, but I couldn't figure out the sequence to get to the second bolt and my fingers couldn't take anymore. I will be back.