Wendell Spire Rock Climbing
Wendell Spire is actually a sector of the East Canyon rim. It is demarcated on the right (East) by Wendell Spire, which as Tom Hanson points out is a true "summit", being a 40 foot detached pinacle. Routes have been installed West along the wall for close to 400 feet where a natural break in the wall separates them from the Corporate View Block (and more climbing).
The climbing begins on the Spire proper. The Wendell Spire area is characterized by typical CWC conglomerate stone. However, the rock here is overall much steeper than at any other place in CWC and as such hosts the most difficult climbing at CWC. Most routes are in the 5.11 to 5.12 domain, although one of the best hard lines in CWC, at 5.13b, is present in the Wendell Spire area. A few warm-up routes exist, along with perhaps the easiest bolted line in the Front Range, at 5.6.
Some of the FAs can be well documented in the Wendell Spire area, although much of the FA data are impossible to attribute. The FA crew often worked with several folks on a line at one time. However, the main crew spinning drills included the notorious Mr. Big (aka Tom Hanson), Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, Scott Sills, Mike Lane, and Pat Burwick.
While all of the routes top out between 40 to 60 feet, bring the guns anyway. The climbing is pumpy, difficult, and fun. As a South-facing wall, the Wendell Spire area offers great sun for most of the day. Strictly for convenience and to impose some order on the numbering, I have called Phalloid Void on the spire proper #1, with numbering running right to left. Hopefully this will be fixable when the West limit of this area can be defined.
Get to Wendell Spire from the East Canyon Visitor's Center. Park at the West paved lot, and stroll down through the picnic area to a marked trail that takes you down to the creek. Follow the trail across the creek and head down-stream (left!); pass the phallic block in the trail, and several hundred feet further take small but obvious trial up to the climbing. This will deposit you at the base of Ruse, Wendell Spire is to the right about 100 feet.
Weather station 6.8 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wendell Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wendell Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wendell Spire:
Nob Job 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch
The Beak 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
The Sub 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Wendell Spire
The Black Streak 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c CO
: Denver South
: ... : Wendell Spire
In my opinion, this is easily one of the top 3 routes at [Castlewood]. It is between The Sub and Seamless.A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and slopey little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake, then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on, and you're home free. The top, aft...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Snowmelt over The Sub and Black Streak.
Wendell Spire in January- full snow in the backgro...
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 8, 2001
See Phalloid Void for a right sector photo and The Beak for a left sector photo.
From: Englewood, CO
Oct 27, 2003
Anybody been on Cheesedick Soriee? I was wondering if they could confirm the 12a rating on it. Just wondering what others think of it. I thought it was not that hard.
By Chris Cavallaro
Aug 24, 2006
I came extremely close to getting bitten by a rattler last night. It was right off the main canyon trail near the cutoff to Wendell. This guy was big, and he even snapped at me! Be Careful!!!!