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Wendall's Dike 

Wendall's Dike 

WI4 M3 R

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus: WI4 M3 [details]
FA: First recorded ascent, Ryan Barber, Bradley White, 1/2013
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: bradley white on Jan 11, 2013

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The exit to belay trees

Description 

I believe this is an old route that didn't find its way into a guide book yet. So, that is why it is a recorded ascent.
Climb the rock wall at (M2-3 R) to the dirt ramp and belay at oak tree passed the large pine tree on the right (I should make the first pitch protection more reasonable by next winter).
Go up easy gully that is bolted. Mostly rock in thin condition to the bolted (M2) head wall left or stay in the gully to the chimney. Ascend the chimney of the dike (we had much trouble due to warm and thin conditions). It's a narrow chimney with cascading ice runnel. Tight inside chimney. I put much torque on the tool placements to get my feet higher. Crampon on rock out of the dike's chimney will likely always happen. Sections of ice came off at the base of the dike leaving bare rock on our ascent and dry pointing (M3) happened instead of ice. Fortunately the rock route 'White Rabbit' bolts protected this ice route because it was too warm for ice screws.
Its technical and provocative with its especially deep chimney crux.

Location 

The wall on the right of the trail is at the same height as the summer rock route the 'Wrong Crack'. This hand crack is on the adjacent wall with a gully between these walls. Wendall's start is closest to the trail at the large cornered, easiest looking way up the ledge. Rappelling is good or there is a walk off east to the Jimmy Cliff trail.

Protection 

First pitch has only one trusted army surplus pin. Eight bolts available and four at the dike crux on second pitch.


Photos of Wendall's Dike Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan Barber at the pin on the rock start.
Ryan Barber at the pin on the rock start.
Ryan at the no hands spot.
Ryan at the no hands spot.
The dike and head wall ice route right.
The dike and head wall ice route right.
Ryan Barber in the last crux.
Ryan Barber in the last crux.
Ryan
Ryan
Ryan, near the end of the dike.
Ryan, near the end of the dike.
Ryan has entered the narrows.
Ryan has entered the narrows.
Winter Wonderland Fun (Wendall's Dike)
BETA PHOTO: Winter Wonderland Fun (Wendall's Dike)

Comments on Wendall's Dike Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 12, 2013

These pictures aren't really a good depiction of this particular route. Its a worthy go and with better conditions would be incredible. The bolts for White Rabbit can be used to protect the more difficult sections of the chimney.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 15, 2013

On another note, the rating of the climb might be much softer in better conditions. The ice was very thin and wet because of a recent thaw making it harder and more dangerous than in perfect alpine conditions.